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Transform Your Skin With These Skincare Hacks

September 07, 2021

Many skincare ingredients and skin issues have been discussed in this blog thus far, and we have been showered with countless positive feedbacks from our dear customers, such as how the articles have helped them solve their skin issues, and understand how to really pick the right products for their skin, as well as how their view on skincare, especially in regards to safety, marketing claims, and gimmicks, have changed.

This week, let’s do something different——we have asked our founder Wendy, who is 38 but looks, well, incredibly youthful as you can see below, with no wrinkles in sight, yet never goes for facials, laser treatments or any sort of procedures, to share some of her skincare hacks.

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What to do when skincare product pill?

Wendy: Sometimes when you layer different products on top of each other, especially serums, some sort of pilling occurs. There are two main reasons to it. First, the ingredients used and their respective molecular size and concentrations are all different across products, so piling may occur, more so for gel formulas. This in itself does not define a product’s quality. Second, you probably are not applying the products on damp (enough) skin. The skin is like a sponge, which absorbs better when it is damp. This means if you did not dampen the skin enough with toner, subsequent products cannot penetrate and will end up sitting on the skin. Hence when you put another layer of product on top, they rub against each other, and result in pilling.

Now, you don’t have to throw the products away or stop using them at all. There’s an easy fix. Simply use products on damp skin, which means patting on a generous layer of toner or essence after cleansing and then before it dries down, apply the serum. If pilling still occurs, massage another generous layer of toner on top. This will break down the balled up bits. If you are using two serums, a layer of toner between them will also help enhance absorption and prevent pilling. And no, it will not be too heavy at all. In fact, foundation will go on better and look more radiant this way!

Just remember though, do not do this on top of sunscreen, as mixing sunscreen with any product may affect its effectiveness.

Product Recommendation
AGENT NATEUR
holi(water) Hyaluronic Pearl & Rose Essence <- Click to shop

Product Recommendation
MARIE REYNOLDS LONDON
Hydr8 Misting Veil™ <- Click to shop

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Some people claim vaseline can help clear blackheads, is it true?

Wendy: Vaseline contains 100 percent petroleum jelly (a mixture of mineral oils and waxes), meaning it is a purely occlusive product that seals moisture in, but does nothing beyond that, not even adding moisture. In fact, it can seal all the bacteria, oil and dirt in the skin, essentially pushing them deeper into the skin and making problems worse (even worse if you put a plastic wrap over it). If you do some research, every dermatologist actually advise against using this method for blackheads.

The truth is, if you use AHA, BHA, and PHA consistently, blackheads shouldn’t be an issue at all. However, if you really cannot use acids (although sensitive skin can too, you just need to use the right ones), or if you have been out and about, sweating and exercising, you may want to try the following method to help with clogged pores and blackheads:

Remove all makeup and cleanse your face;
Shower, and let the steam from your shower soften the clogged dirt and oil in the pores (again, pores do not have muscles thus do NOT open or close, stop believing in that crap);
Get out of the shower, make sure the face is dry, then immediately apply a layer of cleansing oil, massage to spread it all over, and leave on for 5 minutes to let it melt away the now softened clogged dirt and oil (oils remove oils, that is something water-based cleansers cannot do);
Rinse off with warm water;
Apply a layer of cleansing mask that contains kaolin, which is gentle enough for all skin types including sensitive skin, to absorb all that melted dirt and oil
Rinse off the cleansing mask with warm water, then follow with your usual toner, serums, etc.

Also, one thing to remember. Do not squeeze with your fingers. First, even if you have washed your hands, there could still be bacteria hiding in your fingernails. By squeezing, you are introducing new bacteria into the pores. Secondly, squeezing, just like the pulling action from using pore strips, will traumatize the skin, damage the skin barrier and pore lining, resulting in more clogged pores, acne, and enlarged pores that cannot be shrunk in the future.

Product Recommendation
OUMERE
No. 9 Exfoliant <- Click to shop

Product Recommendation
TWELVE BEAUTY
The London Mask <- Click to shop

Product Recommendation
KLUR
Supreme Seed Delicate Purification Mask <- Click to shop

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What to do if the skin feels dry and doesn’t seem to be absorbing skincare products?

Wendy: When the stratum corneum is too thick with a buildup of dead skin cells, the skin’s texture will be uneven, so it will feel and look rough and dry. Skincare products won’t be able to penetrate either, making the skin even drier or more dehydrated.

So first of all, do exfoliate with acids regularly (avoid scrubs as they are unable to unclog pores, and can easily irritate, as well as cause micro-tears in the skin leading to acne, dryness, or worse, barrier damages). You don’t need to use a product with a high concentration of acids for it to work. It’s always better to use a milder product, say an everyday acid cleanser, or an acid serum every other day, than to use a high-strength product once a week or fortnight that may end up leaving your skin red or sensitive. Also, like I said before, even sensitive skin can use acids. You just need to choose the right product, and use it at the right frequency for your skin. For instance, lactic acid, mandelic acid, and PHA are all excellent options.

Product Recommendation
Agent Nateur
acid(wash) Lactic Acid Brightening Cleanser <- Click to shop

If you’re looking for a SOS solution, here’s a trick, which combines 2 techniques from dermatologists:

Cleanse;
Exfoliate (can be in the form of an acid cleanser, toner or serum);
Use toner, eye serum, serum(s), and oil;
Soak a piece of paper mask (with packaging, drugstore ones are fine) in warm water and heat it up to 40℃. If you have rosacea or inflamed skin, put it in the fridge earlier instead;
Layer the paper mask on top of the toner, serum, and oil;
Remove the paper mask after the designated time period, then seal off with a moisturizer.

You must be asking why heat the paper mask up or cool it in the fridge, and why layer it ON TOP of toner, eye serum, serum(s) and oil. Right?

First of all, heat is known to increase skin permeability, which results in better absorption of the skincare products you just put on to reach deeper into the layers of the skin. Also, at this level, the heat will relax the muscles and expand blood vessels to increase blood flow circulation, allowing oxygen and nutrients to be delivered to targeted areas for cell repair and regeneration. Just don’t heat up products in the bottle though, as it’s not good for stability.

On the other hand, when the skin is inflamed, using a cooled paper mask can help constrict the blood vessels, reduce redness, and calm inflammatory reactions.

As for why after toner, eye serum, serum(s) and oil, and not before? There are three reasons: 1) toners and serums evaporate, and a sheet mask physically prevents much of the products underneath it from evaporating; 2) the penetration enhancers in the sheet mask can help with the penetration of previously applied products; and 3) as said before, damp skin absorbs products more readily, thus because a sheet mask can dampen the skin for a prolonged period of time, penetration multiplies. With that being said, don't rely on paper mask for hydration——if you are properly caring for the skin with a good routine using quality products, a good diet, and good daily habits, there's absolutely no reason for your skin to feel hydrated only after using a paper mask.