June 30, 2024
Rosacea is a common chronic inflammatory skin condition that primarily affects the face. Due to its complex nature, the exact cause of rosacea has not been definitively identified in medical science, and as a result, there is no cure available. Additionally, due to the similarity of its symptoms with other skin issues, misdiagnosis is quite common.
This article will discuss in-depth the causes, symptoms, triggers, and effective care methods of rosacea to alleviate existing symptoms and reduce the chances of future flare-ups.
Rosacea is a chronic inflammatory skin condition that primarily affects the central areas of the face, including the cheeks, nose, chin, forehead, and occasionally around the eyes, ears, neck, scalp, and chest. It typically begins to manifest after the age of 30, with varying symptoms and periods of flare-ups and remission.
Rosacea symptoms usually start with redness on both cheeks and the nose (but can also occur on the chin, forehead, and neck) during a flare-up. This is followed by a sensation of stinging or burning, and eventually widespread redness, visible broken blood vessels (spider veins), papules, scaling, and patches. Initially, these symptoms may only appear temporarily, but over time, they can become more persistent and chronic.
The exact cause and pathophysiology of rosacea are not yet fully understood in medical science. However, recent research suggests that innate immune system, adaptive immune system, and neurovascular dysregulation play significant roles in the development of rosacea. This is because genetic and environmental factors directly interact with the skin's neurovascular system, leading to the release of neuropeptides and neuroimmune mediators that contribute to the various symptoms of roseacea. These factors also trigger the release of various mediators that induce and exacerbate roseacea symptoms, such as keratinocytes (for example cathelicidin, vascular endothelial growth factor, and endothelin-1), endothelial cells (nitric oxide), mast cells (cathelicidin and matrix metalloproteinases), macrophages (interferon-gamma, tumor necrosis factor, matrix metalloproteinases, and interleukin-26), and T-helper type 1 and 17 cells (TH1 and TH17).
Additionally, facial vascular abnormalities, impaired skin barrier function, dysbiosis of the skin microbiome, exaggerated reactions to common skin mites, and a previous infection of H. pylori bacteria, are also considered contributing factors in rosacea.
Generally speaking, there are four main types of rosacea:
Many people (even dermatologists!) often mistake long-term facial redness and acne-like bumps for rosacea, but in reality, damaged skin barrier, sensitized skin, severe acne, folliculitis, other skin inflammations, and skin mites can all cause symptoms similar to erythematotelangiectatic and papulopustular rosacea.
One key factor to determine if it is rosacea is whether the symptoms appear symmetrically on the face. Since rosacea comes from some as-yet-unknown internal predisposition, which means medically speaking it is expected to manifest on the skin bilaterally and symmetrically (on both sides of the face and/or body), instead of unilaterally (on one side of the face and/or body), with very few exceptions. It is unlikely to only manifest on one side.
Another key factor is the presence of visible broken blood vessels, which is one of the main symptoms scross all kinds of rosacea.
If the symptoms occur only on one side of the face, or there are no visible broken blood vessels, it is highly likely not rosacea but rather one of the following issues:
The above mentioned factors such as innate immune system, adaptive immune system, neurovascular dysregulation, vascular abnormalities, dysbiosis of the skin microbiome and barrier dysfunction are the main causes of rosacea. Whilst, the factors that can exacerbate the aforementioned issues and trigger rosacea symptoms include but not limited to:
It is not true that rosacea skin can only use the mildest moisturizing and soothing products! In fact, understanding how to use other effective ingredients and skincare products is crucial for effectively relieving existing rosacea symptoms and reducing the chances of future flare-ups. These include:
Researches have discovered that many people with rosacea are missing the good bacteria on their skin that help prevent inflammation, and have an overgrowth of various bad bacteria. By using skincare products that contain live probiotic cultures, these microorganisms improve and strengthen the skin’s natural protective mechanisms and maintain an equilibrium of good bacteria on the skin’s surface.
Topical live probiotic cultures work by secreting anti-bacterial, antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory substances that penetrate bad bacteria and kill them before they trigger an inflammation. They also provide a protective shield to keep bad bacteria from reaching skin cells, as well as calm parts of the skin cells that want to react to the bad bacteria, thus stopping them from sending an “attack” message to the skin’s immune system that leads to redness, swelling, patchy skin, or acne-like bumps.
This is why live probiotic cultures are excellent for skin with issues such as rosacea, as well as eczema, psoriasis, topical dermatitis, and acne.
Now, treating inflammations is not the only skincare benefit live probiotic cultures can provide.
For example, live probiotic cultures use different mechanisms, such as by lowering pH, to preserve skin health and to inhibit the growth of pathogens——an acidic skin environment is very important as it discourages bacterial colonization and provides a moisture barrier.
Studies have also demonstrated that used on wounds, live probiotic cultures can exert an immunomodulatory effect by inducing “wound healing-promoting substances”, such as cytokines and growth factors, and produce certain bacteriocins that can sustain a wound-healing process.
There are also studies that have shown probiotics to significantly enhance skin elasticity by increasing self hyaluronic acid and collagen production, as well as reinforce the barrier function, and increase ceramide levels.
Note that only products that explicitly specify to contain "live probiotic cultures" have real, living probiotics that can provide the activities and benefits mentioned above. All other "probiotic" products do not provide the same effect. For more information, read: Everything About The Microbiome & Probiotics For The Skin 。
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The skin surface harbors various microorganisms, including bacteria——there are approximately one billion bacteria living on every square centimeter of skin! When the species and quantities of these "good bacteria" and "bad bacteria" are in balance, it forms the first line of defense for the body against irritating, toxic substances, and harmful organisms in the environment, directly influencing out immune responses.
Therefore, besides live probiotic cultures, rosacea skin can also benefit from skincare products with prebiotics. Just like you need to eat to stay healthy and strong, the good bacteria also need to eat to thrive. In short, prebiotics are food for these good bacteria. Ingredients such as baobab, stevia, oat, dandelion and various berries are all prebiotics; and because they aren’t living organisms, they won’t be harmed by preservatives or anti-bacterial / anti-microbial agents.
Not all products would highlight this specific aspect in their product descriptions, but know that these ingredients do support the microbiome’s health, and thus are beneficial to have in your skincare routine
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Harsh facial cleansers, such as those foaming ones, contain multiple irritating and drying ingredients (such as surfactants) that can strip away the skin's natural oils. This not only prompts the skin to produce more sticky sebum to in an attempt to maintain moisture, leading to clogged pores and acne breakouts, but also damages the skin's natural lipid barrier. In the case of rosacea-prone skin, which already has a fragile skin barrier, these foaming cleansers can further disrupt the skin barrier, which leaves the skin vulnerable to bacterial attacks and irritating substances, thereby triggering and exacerbating rosacea symptoms.
Therefore, it is important to use gentle, non-foaming cleansers in the morning and evening, and avoid those that contain sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium laureth sulfate. In terms of textures, as long as they are non-foaming, cream, lotion, or gel texture are all suitable.
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It is a very outdated notion that exfoliation is completely unnecessary for rosacea-prone skin due to its fragility and sensitivity. In fact, gentle exfoliation on a regular basis for rosacea skin can effectively reduce the buildup of aging and unhealthy cells, as well as thick layers of dead skin and scales, whilst promoting skin renewal. This not only helps to rid the skin of inflammatory bacteria, reduce issues like papules and pustules, and improve the rough texture and uneven skin tone, but also allow healthier new skin cells to come to the surface.
Why is lactic acid suitable for rosacea-prone skin and is one of the skincare ingredients used by dermatologists to treat rosacea? Firstly, while lactic acid does provide gentle exfoliation, due to its larger molecule size, it only works on the surface of the skin without causing irritation.
Secondly, studies have shown that lactic acid has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. This not only helps to alleviate sensitivity and redness issues but also improves the symptoms of rosacea, such as redness and papules.
Thirdly, ceramides are one of the most important moisturizing components of the skin. When there is a deficiency of ceramides in the skin, the skin barrier function becomes compromised, leading to more severe rosacea symptoms. Research has confirmed that lactic acid effectively increases the levels of ceramides in the skin's stratum corneum, thereby improving the skin barrier function and reducing water loss. When the barrier is healthy, the skin is better able to resist allergens and bacterial invasion. This means that using lactic acid can make the skin more hydrated, plump, and firm, while helping to reduce dry lines, fine lines, and even sensitivity and inflammatory issues.
Fourthly, lactic acid is a humectant. This means that its unique structure and properties bring a significant amount of hydration into the skin and provide hydration to the skin cells, instead of drying skin out like glycolic acid.
Fifthly, factors such as aging, stress, diet, excessive cleansing, and the use of foaming cleansers can make the skin more alkaline. When the skin becomes alkaline, the barrier becomes compromised, resulting in decreased moisture-retention function and reduced protection against bacteria and allergens, which can worsen rosacea problems. Lactic acid helps to regulate the skin's pH, thereby improving the skin's ability to retain moisture whilst protecting and strengthening the skin barrier.
It is important to note that while gentle exfoliation is recommended, physical scrubs or abrasive particles, as well as high concentrations of glycolic acid, should be avoided. The former not only removes dead and aging skin cells but also strips away healthy skin cells that form the protective barrier, and may even cause microscopic tears that create entry points for bacteria. The latter, which has the smallest molecule size among acid types, can penetrate deeply into the skin and cause various irritations.
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Azelaic acid can significantly reduce inflammation problems from three different angles, and thanks to its pH value that falls within healthy skin's weakly acidic range of 4.5 to 5.5, it is an effective ingredient commonly used by dermatologists to treat rosacea.
Apart from inflammation, the redness that comes with rosacea-prone skin is often a result of an overactive defense mechanism in the skin. Some receptors in the skin inherently function as danger sensors that detect environmental threats, and while they generally aid in resisting bacterial or allergenic attacks, when in overdrive, they can lead to sensitivity and rosacea flare ups. Azelaic Acid helps to balance and bring these receptors back under control, fundamentally improving symptoms related to rosacea.
As one of the main ingredients used by dermatologists to treat rosacea and acne, Azelaic Acid has powerful anti-microbial, antibacterial and anti-acne properties::
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Since one of the symptoms of rosacea is acne-like bumps, a lot of people treat it with acne products that contain benzoyl peroxide. This is a big mistake! By nature, this substance increases the skin's oxidative stress and dries the skin, which leads to even worse inflammation, as well as premature aging.
The aforementioned Lactic Acid and Azelaic Acid are already highly anti-bacterial, while also being effective in reducing inflammation, ridding the skin of unwanted, aging substances skin without causing irritation, and promoting self-repair of damaged tissues, making them definitely superior to benzoyl peroxide acne creams!
While the concept of an anti-pollution skincare product may be hard to grasp, the truth is, rosacea skin is often triggered by environmental pollutants in the air. These free radicals attack healthy skin cells, and cause trauma that leads to redness, sensitivity, swelling and even worsening inflammation.
It is therefore recommended to use anti-pollution and antioxidant products that can fight and neutralize free radicals, whilst forming a breathable barrier on the skin surface to physically block out environmental pollutants that can irritate rosacea skin.
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The skin barrier of rosacea-prone skin is extremely fragile, so one of the key focuses in caring for rosacea is to protect, repair, and strengthen this crucial barrier, as not only does it help to lock in moisture but also prevents bacteria, irritants, and allergens from coming into contact with the skin, thereby reducing and improving various rosacea symptoms.
Let's use a reservoir as an analogy. If the water in the skin is like the water in the reservoir, and the skin barrier is the dam of the reservoir, then sebum and lipids are the cement and building materials of the dam. If a damaged dam with gaps is not repaired with cement and building materials, even if water keeps getting poured into the reservoir, it will continue to flow out. Insects, animals, and pollutants will also continue to invade the reservoir.
This means that using face oils to repair and strengthen the skin barrier, which helps the skin to maintain moisture and block out unnecessary bacteria, irritants, and pollutants, is an essential skincare step for all skin types, especially for rosacea-prone skin.
In fact, besides lipids, face oils contain over a hundred types of antioxidants, vitamins, minerals, polyphenols, and many other phytonutrients, while some of which are also rich in anti-inflammatory and anti-aging substances. This means that not only do they moisturize the skin and strengthen the skin barrier but also help to improve multiple symptoms of rosacea at once by enhancinh the skin's own defense against free radicals, stimulatinh collagen production, reducing inflammation, and slowing down skin aging.
To learn more about the benefits of face oils for all skin types, as well as the best ways to use them, visit: Why Your Skin Needs Oil Just As Much As Water .
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UVrays can trigger and exacerbate rosacea symptoms, including stimulating blood vessel dilation and inflammatory reactions. Whether it's sunny, cloudy, or rainy, and whether you are outdoor or indoor, UV rays are present everywhere. Therefore, it is necessary to use sunscreen daily for rosacea-prone skin. Among sunscreens, mineral sunscreens containing zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide are particularly recommended.
In addition, using mineral sunscreen not only helps to block UV rays but also provides a physical barrier to prevent allergens from contacting the skin, thereby reducing chances of triggering rosacea symptoms, which is obviously beneficial for rosacea-prone skin.
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The skin of papulopustular rosacea exhibits pustules filled with pus or fluid, resembling acne, and the skin tends to become oily. With advancements in technology, one of the newer treatment methods is the regular and proper use of encapsulated retinol, which can improve papules and oily skin in multiple ways:
It is true that retinol is a potent active ingredient, but whether it produces adverse reactions depends entirely on the concentration of retinol, the delivery form, and the overall formulation of the product. Encapsulated retinol releases the active ingredient slowly into the skin, making the usage process gentle without compromising its effectiveness. Therefore, as long as you choose a product that combines encapsulated retinol with a range of soothing and nourishing ingredients, and use it correctly on a regular basis, say two to three nights per week, it can really benefit and improve papulopustular rosacea.
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Rosacea is a type of chronic inflammation, and as the largest organ of the body, the presence of chronic inflammation in the body naturally reflects on the skin, which causes rosacea symptoms to exacerbate. Therefore, in addition to using appropriate topical skincare products, reducing inflammation from within is an important aspect of treating rosacea.
Besides taking out inflammatory foods, including dairy products, gluten, sugar, eggs, soy, alcohol, caffeine, and nightshades such as tomatoes, eggplants, potatoes, etc., from your diet (for details, read: How Different Foods Negatively Afffect the Skin and How Different Foods Negatively Afffect the Skin - Part 2), rosacea patients should also take different supplements to minimize inflammations in a multi-angle approach:
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