Feel like blackheads never seem to go away, and even after clearing them out, they're back in two days?
The truth is, what you think are blackheads are more often than not, not blackheads at all, but sebaceous filaments! And incorrect care not only enlarges pores but can also increases the risk of folliculitis and other inflammatory issues.
Today, let's discuss in detail the differences between blackheads and sebaceous filaments, improper care methods, and the correct ways to improve them.
Sebum is an oily substance produced by the sebaceous glands in the skin. In addition to lubricating the skin's surface, it also reinforces the skin's protective barrier to prevent moisture loss, block harmful substances, bacteria, and pathogens from entering the skin, and reduce the risk of infection. Furthermore, sebum contains a certain amount of fatty acids, which help maintain the skin's pH balance——the skin's healthiest pH is at around 4.7, which helps maintain a healthy skin environment that is unfavorable for bacterial growth.
Sebaceous filaments are a normal structure of the skin that plays a role in maintaining skin health. They are composed of sebum, dead skin cells, and bacteria, and are arranged along the follicular wall to help disperse sebum through tiny channels to the skin surface to maintain moisture, unlike blackheads that have pugs and clog pores. Sebaceous filaments are most noticeable on the face, especially the nose, forehead, chin, and cheeks, but since sebaceous glands are present throughout the body, they can sometimes appear on areas like the arms, legs, chest, and so on.
Generally, these sebaceous filaments are so fine that they are almost invisible. However, when the skin produces excessive sebum due to factors like weather, diet, hormones, improper skincare practices, or when the skin starts to sag due to aging and loss of collagen and elastin, these tiny channels may become more visible as small, semi-transparent yellow or yellowish-gray dots that are flat, as they become filled with sebum.
Blackheads typically appear on the nose, forehead, chin, as well as the chest and back. This is because these areas have more sebaceous glands, and when these glands produce excess sebum and combined with dead skin cells, waste, proteins, and pollutants, they slowly harden into layers like an onion that block the pore openings, creating a slightly raised dot on the skin surface. Since these follicles are open, these hardened waste would get exposed to air and oxygen, then oxidize and turn into black or dark brown "blackheads."
In addition to excess sebum due to factors like weather, diet, hormones, and improper skincare practices, enlarged and slackened pores as a result of aging, loss of collagen and elastin, and extractions, as well as a buildup or dead skin cells and improper cleansing amongst other factors, can all exacerbate blackheads.
Sebaceous filaments and blackheads may look very similar at first glance, but in reality, they are different and can be distinguished:
- Appearance
Sebaceous filaments are flat and non-protruding; blackheads, on the other hand, protrude a little bit at the pore openings - Color
Sebaceous filaments are semi-transparent yellow or yellowish-gray; blackheads are black or dark brown - Pore Blockage
Sebaceous filaments do not clog pores; blackheads do block pores, and improper handling can lead to inflammation and acne - Structure
When squeezed, sebaceous filaments appear as long, soft, semi-transparent yellow thread-like that quickly reappear; blackheads are shaped like drops or granules with a noticeable black tip
｜Improper Care Methods
The following are some common practices that most people do, but in reality, are superficial and incorrect ways of dealing with the issue:
- Squeezing
Whether squeezing sebaceous filaments or blackheads, using fingers or nails to squeeze can damage the skin barrier, and may even stretch the pores or harm the pore linings, making pores permanently larger; and when pores are permanently enlarged, sebaceous filaments and blackheads will become more noticeable. In severe cases, squeezing can introduce bacteria to the skin or cause inflammation, leading to acne, folliculitis, and other issues. - Blackhead Remover / Tool
The use of blackhead remover / tool has become very popular recently, but it doesn't differ significantly from using fingers or nails. While seeing all these gunk come out on the tool can be very satisfactory, apart from the high likelihood of scraping the skin surface, damaging the skin barrier, or causing micro-tears, there is also a chance of enlarging pores permanently due to damaged pore linings; and when pores are permanently enlarged, sebaceous filaments or blackheads will become more prominent. Moreover, if the remover or tool is not properly sanitized each time, it can introduce bacteria to the skin or cause inflammation leading to acne, folliculitis, and other issues. - Pore Strips
Many people like using pore strips, but due to the drop or granule-like shape of blackheads, what usually comes out on the strip are sebaceous filaments rather than blackheads; and as explained above, since sebaceous filaments are a normal skin structure, they will simply reappear within a couple of days. Plus, using pore strips run the risk of potentially causing damage when peeled off. - Extraction
The principle of extraction involves using a needle-like extractor to squeeze out excess oil and dirt that are clogging the pores. The issue with this method is that it heavily relies on the skill and technique of the aesthetician, as well as the cleanliness of the tools. If the procedure is not done properly or the tools are not properly sanitized, not only will it stretch pores or harm pore linings, making pores permanently larger but can also introduce bacteria into the follicles causing folliculitis or other skin inflammatory issues. - Using Vaseline and Plastic wrap
There are many articles and videos online suggesting using Vaseline with a layer of Plastic wrap can help remove blackheads, but if you do just a little research, you would find that all dermatologists advise strongly against using this method to treat blackheads or pore issues.
Here's the truth, Vaseline is made of 100% pure petrolatum (a mixture of mineral oil and wax), making it a completely occlusive product. It helps lock in moisture but lacks any other functions——it does NOT even moisturize the skin, nor can it soften and melt off the clogged impurities in the pores. In fact, while it prevents moisture loss, it also prevents bacteria, oils, and dirt from being passed out from the skin, and can even potentially push them deeper into the skin, which could exacerbate issues over time.
｜Correct Ways to Improve Blackheads and Excessive Sebaceous Filaments
To improve blackheads and excessive sebaceous filaments, the correct way to go is to reduce sebum overproduction and pore blockage fundamentally through proper daily skincare and diet. When sebum is no longer excessively produced and pores are not frequently blocked, blackheads and excessive sebaceous filaments will naturally decrease, then there would be no need to resort to the improper methods mentioned above to handle them when they constantly appear and risk harming the skin.
- Using Cleansing Oil
As mentioned above, blackheads are formed when excess sebum mixes with dead skin cells, waste, proteins, and pollutants, which gradually harden into layers like an onionn that block the pore openings. Since they are oil-soluble, plain water or water-based cleansing products cannot break them down. However, oil-soluble and emulsifying cleansing oil can melt and naturally dissolve blackheads and excessive sebaceous filaments, making pores appear finer.
In addition to double cleansing every night (removing makeup and sunscreen first with a cleansing oil, and then cleanse again with a regular cleansing gel or milk), you can target blackheads or excessive sebaceous filaments with cleansing oil two to three times a week to improve pores using the following method:
- First, cleanse with a cleansing oil at night
- Then wash your hair and shower
- Come out of the shower, and use a regular cleansing gel or milk to cleanse again
- Pores do not open or close!!! (Stop believing this completely unscientific statement!!!) However, the steam during the shower can help soften the oil and dirt inside the pores. Take this opportunity to gently massage with cleansing oil in circular motions, then wait for 5 minutes to let it dissolve the oil and dirt inside the pores, and rinse with warm water.
Note that we do not recommend using pure jojoba oil or olive oil as some online articles suggest——without the emulsification process, they cannot effectively cleanse the skin and may even worsen pore blockage issues with long-term use.
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- Using Kaolin Clay Mask
Kaolin clay possesses very high absorption and adsorption abilities. With its extremely small molecule weight, it can effectively draw away oil, dirt, impurities, pollutants, and bacteria from the skin and pores, easily unclogging and tightening pores. This helps reduce bothersome blackheads and excessive sebaceous filaments without damaging the skin like squeezing or extracting would. Furthermore, unlike other clays such as bentonite clay, its unique trait lies in not stripping the skin of its natural oils and moisture, and thus would not cause dryness or stimulate excess oil production. Over time, it also aids in balancing the overall sebum production of the skin, which helps in improving blackheads, acne, whiteheads, and excessive oiliness fundamentally.
In addition, due to kaolin clay's gentler nature compared to other types of clay, and its anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and reparative properties, it is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and inflamed skin conditions.
We would recommend to first dissolve blackheads or excess sebaceous filaments using the above cleansing oil method two to three times a week, then followed by applying a kaolin clay mask to further absorb softened oil and dirt residual that are clogging the pores.
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- Using Products with Acids for Gentle Exfoliation and Skin Renewal
The excessive accumulation of dead skin cells is one of the main reasons blackheads become severe. Now, as we age, the speed and efficiency of cell renewal notably decrease—shifting from needing 14-21 days in our 20s to 28-45 days in our 30s, 45-60 days in our 40s, and even averaging 90 days or more in our 50s-60s! Which means, unless exfoliation is properly done, blackheads can easily worsen with age!
Out of fear or irritation, many people prefer physical exfoliation over using acids to remove dead skin cells, but the truth is the particles in physical exfoliants are too large and non-oil soluble, which means they cannot dissolve the oil and dirt inside the pores. Whilst, the back-and-forth rubbing motion during physical exfoliation can irritate and tug at the skin, remove healthy new skin,, and damage the skin barrier; and when the skin barrier is compromised, the skin's ability to retain moisture and protect against bacteria and allergens significantly decreases, leading to dehydration, increased sensitivity, inflammations and acne. Additionally, physical exfoliation can create microscopic tears that bacteria can exploit!
Acids like AHAs, BHAs, and PHAs work by dissolving the bonds between aged skin cells, promoting their natural shedding and accelerating cell turnover. Now, while acids are often perceived as harsh, they actually do not affect healthy or new skin cells nor cause micro-tears in the skin if used properly, and many of them in fact also have hydrating and antibacterial! As long as the formula's ingredients and concentrations are balanced, the application method is correct and high concentration of glycolic acid is avoided, they are suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and inflammatory skin. Regular use can even stimulate collagen and hyaluronic acid synthesis, increase dermal thickness, reduce wrinkles, and give the skin a fuller, smoother, and more elastic appearance!
Still concerned about irritation?e used:
- Lactic Acid
Lactic acid can gently exfoliate, reducing blackheads cause by clogged pores, as well as excessive sebaceous filaments. Due to its relatively large molecule size, it only acts on the skin's surface, so it won't irritate the skin at all. Moreover, research shows that lactic acid has antibacterial properties and can reduce inflammatory responses, which help to lower the chances of blackheads developing into acne.
In addition, besides its exfoliating properties, lactic acid is also a humectant that is capable of hydrating the skin! Studies have also confirmed that lactic acid can effectively increase the levels of ceramides in the skin's stratum corneum, thereby improving skin barrier function and reducing moisture loss.
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- Mandelic Acid
Mandelic acid, extracted from bitter almonds, is large in molecule size, meaning that it only works on the surface layer of the epidermis to remove dead skin cells, so it won't irritate the skin. Being oil-soluble, it can bind to the skin's stratum corneum, dissolve excess sebum and dirt inside the pores, thereby improving blackheads and excessive sebaceous filaments. Additionally, it has antibacterial properties, and can help regulate sebum production and unclog pores.
- Salicylic Acid
Salicylic acid (BHA), including salicylic acid, willow bark extract, and betaine salicylate, are all oil-soluble. Therefore, like Mandelic Acid, they can penetrate deep into the pores to remove clogged dead skin cells and excess sebum and dirt. Interestingly, not only does it help improve blackheads and acne, research also shows that salicylic acid can help soothe acne-like bumps and improve redness, making it beneficial for rosacea-prone skin. Whilst, Willow bark extract, in particular, has been found to help alleviate psoriasis and eczema!
For at-home use, it is recommended to choose products with salicylic acid concentrations below 2% to avoid potential skin irritation, as concentrations higher than 2% may be irritating.
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- Gluconolactone
A type of PHA naturally found in fruits, honey, and wine, not only is Gluconolactone effective in gentle exfoliation, but its hydrating properties also help hydrating the skin, making it particularly suitable for sensitive skin. What makes Gluconolactone special is its healing and antibacterial properties, which is why it is often recommended for repairing damaged skin, including skin that has recently undergone aggressive beauty treatments like laser procedures.
- Lactobionic Acid
A type of sugar-derived PHA, Lactobionic Acid has similar effects to AHAs, such as gentle exfoliation, improving enlarged pores, smoothing the skin, and lightening pigmentation and acne scars. Although not as potent as AHAs, its characteristic of not needing a low pH to be effective makes it especially suitable for sensitive skin.
In addition, being a humectant, Lactobionic Acid helps bring hydration to the skin. With its rich content of powerful antioxidants, it can also selectively intercept enzymes that accelerate aging, helping the skin maintain a youthful appearance.
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- Use Products that Contain Retinol
You might be aware that Retinol can directly alter skin cell function at a biological level, stimulating the proliferation of Type I, III, and IV collagen, as well as elastin. This process helps smooth wrinkles and scars, tighten pores, improve skin texture, and lighten pigmentation and acne marks. The truth is, Retinol was initially introduced as a skincare ingredient to address acne, blackheads, and whiteheads!
Retinol can improve blackheads, excessive sebaceous filaments, and acne through various pathways, including:
- Regulating Cell Renewal
Retinol helps regulate the skin cell renewal process, promoting the shedding of aged cells to prevent their accumulation, which effectively helps avoid clogged pores, blackheads, excessive sebaceous filaments, and acne. - Improving Pore Congestion
Retinol can unclog and dissolve the buildup of oil, dead skin cells, and impurities in the pores, reducing the appearance of blackheads, excessive sebaceous filaments and acne caused by pore congestion. - Regulating Sebum Production
Sebum is the natural oil produced by the skin, which helps in skin moisturization. However, excessive sebum production can promote blackheads, excessive sebaceous filaments and acne formation. Retinol can regulate sebum production, thereby preventing excess oil from clogging pores and causing such issues.
- Regulating Cell Renewal
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- Use Products that Contain Azelaic Acid
Azelaic Acid is a skincare ingredient naturally found in grains like wheat, rye, and barley. Not only does it possess a range of outstanding skincare benefits, but its pH value falls within the mildly acidic range of 4.5 to 5.5, perfectly matching the pH of healthy skin. This is why dermatologists often use it as an effective ingredient to treat acne and blackhead issues!
Azelaic acid can improve blackheads, excessive sebaceous filaments, and acne through various pathways, including:
- Assisting in Normalizing Skin Cell Turnover Process
The skin's turnover process, involving the formation and shedding of dead skin cells, is crucial for healthy skin. When this process is disrupted, which leads to abnormal accumulation of dead cells, pores get clogged, bacteria get trapped in the skin, resulting in blackheads, excess sebaceous filaments, acne, and various inflammatory issues. Azelaic Acid helps normalize this turnover process, reducing the chances of these problems from occurring. - Regulating Sebum Production
Sebum is the oily substance secreted by the skin's sebaceous glands. Healthy skin requires sebum, but excess sebum production can lead to blackheads, excess sebaceous filaments, and acne. Azelaic acid helps regulate sebum production, thereby reducing their occurrence. - Inhibiting Proliferation and Differentiation of Keratinocytes
Azelaic acid can inhibit the proliferation and differentiation of keratinocytes, and improve the orderly growth of skin cells within the pores. This not only helps maintain clear pores, making them appear smaller and tighter, but also aids in reducing blackheads and excess sebaceous filaments!
- Assisting in Normalizing Skin Cell Turnover Process
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- Use Products that Contain Bakuchiol
Bakuchiol is a natural plant ingredient with anti-aging, anti-wrinkle, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antibacterial properties. While it is often touted in the market as a plant-based retinol, in reality, it shares no structural similarities with retinol compounds. However, research shows that although Bakuchiol cannot directly activate retinoid receptors in the skin like retinol, it can regulate gene expression and signaling pathways related to retinoid receptors. This means that Bakuchiol can indeed provide retinol-like skincare effects, such as promoting collagen and elastin synthesis, smoothing wrinkles and fine lines, tightening pores, evening skin tone, reducing pigmentation, and increasing skin firmness and elasticity. Due to its gentle nature, it is suitable not only for sensitive, rosacea-prone, and eczema-prone skin but also for use by mothers during pregnancy and breastfeeding!
Most importantly, its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties also help downregulate the 5α-reductase enzyme that increases excessive sebum production in the skin, and inhibit the growth of P.acnes bacteria that cause acne, thereby aiding in the improvement and prevention of blackheads, excess sebaceous filaments, and acne.
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- Ensuring Adequate Intake of Vitamin A, Pantothenic Acid (Vitamin B5), Vitamin B6, and Vitamin D
- Vitamin A and Pantothenic Acid (Vitamin B5)
Both can reduce excess sebum production and prevent pore from clogging, which helps improve blackheads, excess sebaceous filaments, and acne issues. - Vitamin B6
Especially important for problems related to excess sebum production due to hormonal imbalance or before and after menstruation, thus internal intake can be helpful for blackheads and excess sebaceous filaments. - Vitamin D
Insulin stimulates excessive sebum secretion, and insulin resistance can exacerbate this issue. Vitamin D can help the body resist insulin resistance problems, thereby reducing the appearance of blackheads and excess sebaceous filaments caused by excessive sebum secretion.
- Vitamin A and Pantothenic Acid (Vitamin B5)
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- Reducing Excessive Sebum Production through Diet
Our skin is the body's largest organ, so whatever we eat or drink is fully reflected on our skin. This means that unless we truly pay attention to our daily diet, even if we use the most effective and expensive skincare products in the world and undergo expensive aesthetic treatments weekly, the skin will continue to have issues like blackheads, excessive sebaceous filaments, enlarged pores, and more.
For instance, some foods including chocolate, fried foods, dairy products like ice cream, milk, cakes, cheese, etc., contain saturated fats that can thicken sebum and make sebum sticky, whilst, other foods like sugar and coffee can increase insulin and/or cortisol levels, all of which can lead to issues such as excess sebum, clogged pore, blackheads, excessive sebaceous filamennts, acne, inflammations, and more.
We have dicussed how different foods negatively affect the skin. For details, check them out hereHow Different Foods Negatively Affect The Skin and How Different Foods Negatively Affect The Skin - Part 2。
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