Skincare and Nutritional Ingredients That Can Help Improve Acne

There are many factors that can contribute to acne. The most direct cause is the overproduction of sebum due to dehydration and a compromised skin barrier. Additionally, clogged pores, bacteria, and inflammation caused by the accumulation of dead skin cells play a role, while hormones, menstrual cycles, stress, and diet also have a significant impact.

We have talked about some skin care habits that can worsen acne in our last article. If you haven't read it yet, go check it out：13 Skin Care Habits That Can Worsen Acne .

Today, let's delve into skin care ingredients and nutrients that have been clinically proven to truly help improve acne, so that you know what to choose next time.

Skin Care Ingredients That Can Help Improve Acne

｜Retinol

Retinol is that most widely recognized and studied anti-aging ingredient in both the dermatological and scientific communities, as it works by literally augmenting the biology of the skin, and activating Types I, III, and IV collagen, elastin and epidermal growth factor receptors, thereby reducing wrinkles and scarring, tightening pores, smoothing skin texture, and fading hyperpigmentation. What most people do not know however, is that it is originally a skin care ingredients that was made to treat acne——its anti-aging effects were only observed after being used to treat acne patients!

Retinol can help improve acne on various fronts, including:

• Regulation of Skin Cell Turnover
  Retinol helps regulate the process of skin cell turnover by promoting the shedding of aged and damaged cells and preventing their accumulation. This effectively avoids clogged pores and acne formation
  
  
• Improvement of Pore Congestion
  Retinol can unclog and dissolve the buildup of oil, dead skin cells, and impurities in the pores, thereby reducing the appearance of blackheads and acne caused by pore congestion.
  
  
• Reduction of Inflammation
  Retinol has anti-inflammatory properties that help calm and reduce the swelling and redness associated with acne. It can also inhibit the production of inflammatory molecules, further reducing the inflammatory response that result in acne.
  
  
• Regulation of Sebum Production:
  Sebum is the natural oil produced by the skin, which helps keep the skin moisturized. However, excessive sebum production can contribute to the development of acne. Retinol regulates sebum production, preventing excessive oil buildup and thus clogged pores that can lead to acne.
  
  
• Promotion of Collagen Production
  Collagen is a protein that maintains the structural support of the skin. Acne scars occur when there is a lack of collagen during the skin's healing process. Retinol stimulates collagen production, which helps improve and prevent the appearance of acne scars.
  
  

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｜Bakuchiol

Bakuchiol is a natural plant ingredient with anti-aging, anti-wrinkle, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antibacterial properties. It is often marketed as a plant-based alternative to retinol, although structurally it bears no resemblance to retinol compounds.

With that being said, research does indicate that while Bakuchiol cannot directly activate retinoid receptors in the skin like retinol, it can regulate gene expression and signaling pathways related to retinoid receptors. This means that Bakuchiol can indeed provide retinol-like skincare effects, such as promoting collagen and elastin synthesis, smoothing wrinkles and fine lines, evening skin tone, reducing pigmentation, and increasing skin firmness and elasticity.

Furthermore, aside from being anti-inflammatory and antibacterial, it also helps to downregulate the 5α-reductase enzyme that increases excessive sebum production in the skin and inhibit the growth of P. acnes bacteria that cause acne, thus aiding in the improvement and prevention of acne.

The best part? Thanks to its gentle nature, it is suitable not only for sensitive, rosacea-prone, and eczema-prone skin but also for use by mothers during pregnancy and breastfeeding!

Bakuchiol can improve acne through multiple pathways, including:

• Combat Acne-Causing Bacteria
  Besides being antibacterial, Bakuchiol can inhibit the growth of P. acnes bacteria that cause acne, which helps to effectively improve and prevent acne.
  
  
• Regulate Sebum Production
  Sebum is the natural oil produced by the skin, which helps in moisturizing the skin and maintaining a healthy pH balance. However, excessive sebum production can promote acne formation. Bakuchiol can downregulate the 5α-reductase enzyme that increases excessive sebum production in the skin, thereby preventing excess oil from clogging pores and forming acne.
  
  
• Reduce Inflammatory Response
  Bakuchiol possesses anti-inflammatory properties that help reduce redness and swelling associated with acne, while also decreasing the appearance of red post-acne marks caused by prolonged skin inflammation.
  
  
• Promote Collagen Production
  Lack of collagen in the skin during acne repair can lead to atrophic acne scars. Bakuchiol can stimulate collagen production, thereby helping to reduce the appearance of such scars.
  
  

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｜Azelaic Acid

Azelaic Acid is a skincare ingredient that naturally occurs in grains such as wheat, rye, and barley. Not only does it possess many remarkable skincare benefits, it also has a pH value that falls within the slightly acidic range of 4.5 to 5.5, which perfectly matches the pH of healthy skin. For this reason, it is commonly used by dermatologists as an effective ingredient for treating acne.

Azelaic Acid can help improve acne on various fronts, including:

• Highly Anti-Inflammatory, Alleviates Redness
  Chronic acne is often a result of an overactive defense mechanism in the skin. Some receptors in the skin inherently function as danger sensors that detect environmental threats, and while they generally aid in resisting bacterial or allergenic attacks, when in overdrive, they can lead to acne flare ups. Azelaic Acid helps balance and bring these receptors back under control, while reducing the generation of pro-inflammatory molecules and ROS, thus easing inflammations.
  
  
• Anti-Microbial, Antibacterial, Anti-Acne
  Azelaic Acid has antibacterial properties, particularly in terms of inhibiting the growth of Propionibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus epidermidis, which are commonly associated with acne. By reducing the number of bacteria on the skin, various inflammatory issues, including acne, naturally decrease.
  
  
• Normalizing the Process of Skin Keratinization
  The process of skin keratinization, which involves the formation and shedding of dead skin cells, is an important part of healthy skin. However, in skin prone to acne, this process is often disrupted. When dead skin cells accumulate abnormally, pores can become clogged while trapping bacteria within the skin, which then easily lead to acne and various inflammatory issues. Azelaic Acid helps normalize this keratinization process, thus reducing clogged pores and the accumulation of bacteria within the skin that can lead to acne
  
  
• Balancing Sebum Production
  Sebum is an oily substance secreted by the sebaceous glands of the skin. Skin needs sebum to stay healthy, but excess sebum production can contribute to acne. Azelaic Acid helps regulate sebum production, thereby reducing the occurrence of acne.
  
  
• Fading Hyperpigmentation
  Inflammation is a major cause of pigmentation and increased melanin production, as it sends tyrosinase activity into overdrive. Azelaic Acid, with its anti-inflammatory properties, helps reduce visible and underlying inflammation in the skin, slow down melanin production, and thus, decreasing the chances of pigmentation. Furthermore, acne increases the activity of tyrosinase, which in turn increases melanin production and their transfer from melanocytes (cells that produce melanin) to surrounding skin cells, leading to the formation and accumulation of dark spots. Azelaic Acid can inhibit tyrosinase to reduce the production of melanin, as well as interrupt this melanin transfer process, thereby preventing the spread of melanin accumulation in specific areas and fading hyperpigmentation from acne.
  
  
• Inhibiting the Proliferation and Differentiation of Keratinocytes
  Azelaic Acid can improve the disorderly growth of skin cells within the hair follicles by inhibiting the proliferation and differentiation of keratinocytes. This not only helps maintain clear pores but also reduces blackheads and whiteheads, and as a result, the pores will appear smaller and tighter!

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｜Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)

Niacinamide is a water-soluble active form of vitamin B3 that is suitable for both morning and evening use. Clinical studies have shown that a concentration of 0.5% provides skin repair energy, while a concentration of 2% improves skin barrier function, balances sebum production, promotes collagen synthesis, and evens out skin tone; and at concentrations of 4% to 5%, it can significantly reduce hyperpigmentation, making it an excellent ingredient for combating acne!

However, it is important to note that when the concentration of niacinamide in skincare products exceeds 5%, there is a chance of experiencing sensitivity, redness, and swelling due to increased histamine levels.

Niacinamide can help improve acne on various fronts, including:

• Reducing Inflammation and Redness
  Niacinamide’s broad anti-inflammatory properties, as well as its ability in restoring the skin’s barrier function, make it an excellent choice for inflammatory skin conditions, such as acne. By inhibiting nuclear factor kappa B (Nf-kB), reducing production of a variety of inflammatory cytokines, like IL-1 and IL-12, preventing degranulation of mast cells and inhibiting leukocyte migration into the skin, niacinamide has been shown to be as effective as topical antibiotic.
  
  
• Restoring the Skin Barrier
  Niacinamide can stimulate the production of ceramide, which is a major component of the skin barrier. In addition, it increases the production of proteins such as keratin, involucrin and filaggrin that are important factors in the formation and maintenance of the outermost layer of the skin. By fortifying the skin barrier, the skin can then better retain moisture, and block off harmful irritants and bacteria that could lead to acne.
  
  
• Regulating Oil Production
  Research suggests that with continued use, niacinamide helps in regulating oil production by lowering sebum levels and the rate of sebum excretion. This is most beneficial to oily and acne skin. It has also been shown to normalise the lining of the pores, preventing them from getting clogged and subsequently enlarged or resulting in acne.

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｜Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Vitamin C)

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP) is a form of light-, oxygen-, and water-stable Vitamin C that has a salt molecule attached to it. It provides the same skin benefits as L’Ascorbic Acid, and although in a less potent way, it is more bioavailable as it is readily absorbed and utilized by the skin without causing any irritation, making it the perfect go-to Vitamin C form for all skin types, including acne-prone skin, as well as pregnant/breastfeeding ladies. What’s better, it has an added benefit of being an amazing acne fighter!

SAP can help improve acne on various fronts, including:

• Highly Antibacterial
  The two major cause of acne is propionibacterium acne, an acne bacteria. and lipid peroxidation, which can lead to clogged pores, blackheads, inflammatory acne, and possibly wrinkling. It has been shown that at a mere 1% concentration, SAP provides strong antimicrobial effects against propionibacterium acnes for 8 hours, meaning less acne, while reducing sebum oxidation by up to 40%, thus reducing blackheads and clogged pores.
  
  In a 12-week clinical trial, application of 5% SAP has produced excellent results in 76.9% of patients, which is considerably higher than other prescribed acne treatments. Other clinical trials have shown SAP has better efficacy and more effective than 5% benzoyl peroxide (which in itself is problematic as by nature it increases the skin's oxidative stress and dries the skin, which leads to even worse inflammation, scarring, as well as premature aging). The best part? SAP does not cause dryness and irritations like other acne treatments do.
  
  
• Stimulating Collagen Synthesis to Improve Acne Scarring
  SAP has been shown to stimulate collagen and elastin synthesis and angiogenesis, stabilize collagen fibers, and decrease collagen degradation in dermal fibroblasts, increase dermis thickness, decrease scar depth, encourage skin cells and tissue regeneration and accelerate wound healing. Not only does this help prevent acne scarring, but can also improve the appearance of pores for acne-prone skin.
  
  
• Fading Hyperpigmentation
  When there is inflammation in the skin from acne, a signal is sent to the melanocytes as part of an immune response. The melanocytes then through tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible in synthesizing melanin through melanogenesis, overproduce the brown melanin pigment, resulting in visible hyperpigmentation on the skin. In other words, by inhibiting tyrosinase and melanin activities, breaking down melanin and thus downregulating melanin production, you can speed up the fading of existing hyperpigmentation whilst preventing future spots from forming. SAP has been clinically shown to disrupt the melanin cycle by reducing tyrosinase activity by 35%, and melanin production by 80%.

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｜Lactic Acid

Lactic acid, derived from milk, is a gentle and hydrating type of alpha-hydroxy acid that naturally occurs in our bodies, and is one of the main substances in the skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF). Unlike common beliefs, not only does lactic acid gently exfoliate, it also possesses powerful properties in improving acne, including：

• Gently Exfoliates
  As we age, the speed and efficiency of the cell renewal process significantly decrease. In our 20s, it takes approximately 14-21 days for cell turnover, gradually increasing to 28-45 days in our 30s, 45-60 days in our 40s, and even 90 days or more in our 50s and 60s. When aging dead skin cells accumulate on the skin's surface and become progressively harder and uneven, the skin becomes dry, rough, and dull. This thick layer of dead skin cells can also trap excess sebum, dirt, and even bacteria and inflammation, exacerbating acne. Lactic acid can help improve this by providing gentle exfoliating actions, and since it is larger in molecule size, it only works on the surface of the skin and does not cause irritation.
  
  
• Highly Antibacterial
  Research has shown that lactic acid exhibits antibacterial properties and reduces inflammatory responses. This not only helps improve acne, but also alleviate redness and swelling that come along with it.
  
  
• Increases Ceramides in the Skin
  Ceramides are one of the most important moisturizing components of the skin. When there is a deficiency of ceramides in the skin, the skin barrier function is easily compromised, leading to inflammation like acne. Research has confirmed that lactic acid effectively increases the levels of ceramides in the skin's stratum corneum, thereby improving the skin barrier function and reducing water loss. When the barrier is healthy, the skin is also better able to resist allergens and bacterial invasion. This means that using lactic acid can improve and prevent acne!

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｜Other Acid-Based Ingredients

• Mandelic Acid
  Mandelic Acid is derived from bitter almonds, and is considered to be the most gentle AHA. Apart from gentle exfoliation to prevent clogged pores, even skin tone and smooth texture, it has been shown to be great for treating existing acne and preventing future breakouts, as not only is it antibacterial, it also helps regulate sebum production, unclog pores, and reduce inflammation. In addition, studies have also shown that mandelic acid helps stimulate collagen production, which helps to prevent acne scarring.
  
  
• Salicylic Acid
  Salicylic Acid is an oil-soluble acid. This means besides exfoliation, it can penetrate into pores, and dissolves the skin debris and oils that are clogging them, thereby reducing blackheads, whiteheads, and acne. For at-home use, look for products with under 2% Salicylic Acid. Anything over that may be irritating to the skin.
  
  
• Gluconolactone
  Gluconolactone is a type of PHA that naturally occurs in fruit, honey, and wine. Not only is it a gentle exfoliating acid, gluconolactone also has healing and antimicrobial properties, and therefore is often recommended for healing broken skin, including acne. What's better, it is also a hydrator thanks to its ability in attracting water to the skin, making it a great choice for sensitive skin.

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｜Kaolin

Unlike some clays out there that can dry out the skin and result in sensitivity and increased oil production, kaolin clay is considered to be the most gentle clay. Not only is kaolin clay high in silica dioxide from kaolinite, an excellent absorbing agent, it is also neutral in pH, and has moisturising, detoxing, soothing, anti-acne and anti-aging properties, making it suitable for all skin types, especially acne-prone, inflamed, and oily skin, as well as clogged pores.

Kaolin can help improve acne on various fronts, including:

• Absorbing Excess Oil
  Kaolin clay absorbs extra oil from the skin’s surface, thereby keeping the pores unclogged. What’s exceptional about kaolin clay, say compared to bentonite clay, is that it does not strip the skin of its natural oils, the skin thus stays moisturized, and oil production is not stimulated. Over time, it so helps to balance the skin’s overall oil production, thereby improving acne-prone skin.
  
  
• Unclog Pores
  It is hard to fight the urge to squeeze pimples and blackheads, we know. The act however, will easily break the skin, drive bacteria into other location, and worse, leave the skin with scars and even more pimples and blackheads. Thanks to its high adsorption and absorption capacities, as well as extremely fine particle size, kaolin clay can cling to impurities, dirt, pollution, grime, and bacteria in the pores and remove them from the skin. The pores are thus unclogged without stripping or causing trauma to the skin.
  
  
• Soothing Irritations
  Kaolin clay has mild healing, soothing and inflammation-fighting properties. In addition, studies have suggested that kaolin clay could promote blood circulation beneath the skin. Bringing more blood flow to the skin could help to heal wounds faster and relieve some symptoms of acne. In fact, a study has shown that clay packs significantly reduce tissue damage associated with swelling. It is therefore an excellent choice in calming irritations and redness associated with acne
  
  
• Stimulating Collagen Synthesis
  A little known fact. Thanks to its extensive profile of minerals and antioxidants, kaolin clay, when used over time, has been shown to increase collagen synthesis, which could help improve and prevent acne scarring.

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｜Willow Bark Extract

Willow Bark is known for contain salicin (where salicylic acid comes from), it is also rich in polyphenols, tannins, flavonoids, phenolic acids, and essential minerals. Now, although salicylic acid is comparatively more effective, studies have found that even at a level of 100%, salicin is non-irritating, and it therefore more suitable for reactive, inflammatory and sensitive skin.

Willow bark extract can help improve acne on various fronts, including:

• Improving Acne and Tightening Pores
  As the salicin in willow bark extract is essentially a type of BHA, it can unclog pores; whilst, its tannin content can help reduce oiliness and tighten pores. The result, is a reduction of acne, whiteheads, blackheads, and enlarged pores.
  
  
• Gently Exfoliates
  Thanks to its salicin content, willow bark extract gently exfoliates and removes dead skin cells to prevent clog pores that can lead to acne.
  
  
• Calming Redness and Irritations
  Acne and its resulting redness and irritations are basically the result of skin inflammation. Because of its anti-inflammatory properties, willow bark extract can alleviate redness and irritation, while soothing acne's inflammatory symptoms.

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｜Licorice Root Extract

Licorice Root is extracted from the plant licorice (or scientifically Glycyrrhiza Glabra), which has long been used for medicinal purposes by the Hindus, Scythians, Greeks, Chinese, and even Japanese Geishas, thanks to its nearly 300 compounds that possess anti-microbial, antibacterial, and anti-inflammatory properties. When used topically, it delivers various benefits ranging from fighting free radicals, relieving inflammations, improving acne, to fading hyperpigmentation in a similar manner to hydroquinone but safer and without its unwanted side effects.

Licorice root extract can help improve acne on various fronts, including:

• Soothing Inflammatory Conditions
  Licorice Root extract contains various anti-inflammatory compounds, including Isoliquiritigenin, and the powerful Glycyrrhizin, which triggers receptors that naturally raise steroid level in the skin. Together, they soothe irritation, itchiness and redness associated with acne, and cut down its recovery time. Moreover, licorice root also has natural anti-microbial and antibacterial properties, which help to reduce unwanted microbes and bacteria on the skin, and thus minimizing inflammations associated with acne, and speeding up wound healing.
  
  
• Balancing Sebum Production
  Evidences suggest that licorice root helps regulate oil production in the glands. By controlling oil production, together with its antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties, it can in turn, improve acne, blackheads, and blemishes.
  
  
• Fading and Preventing Hyperpigmentation
  As mentioned above, acne marks are a result of skin inflammations that prompted signals to be sent to the melanocytes as part of an immune response. The melanocytes then through tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible in synthesizing melanin through melanogenesis, overproduce the brown melanin pigment, resulting in visible hyperpigmentation on the skin. One of the most potent and active compounds of Licorice Root extract is Glabridin, which is proven to minimize tyrosinase activity and subsequently decreasing melanin production. In addition, Liquiritin, another compound in Licorice Root extract, works to disintegrate, break down, and remove existing excess melanin, thereby reducing hyperpigmentation resulted from acne.

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Nutrients That Can Help Improve Acne

｜Liver Supporting Supplements

Liver is one of the largest and most important organs in the body. In addition to storing and releasing energy from foods, it also regulates sugar metabolism, and acts as the body’s natural filter by removing toxins and wastes from the blood and the whole body system. However, even though the liver can regenerate its own damaged cells, when it lacks essential nutrients, or when it is overwhelmed by toxins from certain food, alcohol, smoking, medication, etc., it can no longer function as it should. As toxins and fat accumulate in the liver, they can get into the blood stream, trigger acne and exacerbate its symptoms.

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｜Supplements that Help Remove Intestinal Parasites

Parasitic infections are quite common, with studies estimating that about 80% of adults and children have intestinal parasites. Parasites can enter the human body through various pathways, including food and water sources, insect bites, contact transmission, and mother-to-child transmission. Once parasites enter the body, they grow, reproduce, and cause corresponding infections or diseases in the host. Some parasites can affect the intestines and immune response, leading to acne.

Therefore, just as pets need regular deworming, it is also important to periodically remove intestinal parasites from oneself as part of improving acne.

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｜Anti-Inflammatory, Anti-Oxidizing and Hormone-Balancing Krill Oil

The health of every cell, organ, including the skin, immune system, and endocrine system in the human body, relies on omega-3 and its rich sources of ALA, EPA, and DHA. While fish oil also contains omega-3, the cell membranes in the human body are composed of phospholipids. Therefore, the phospholipid form of omega-3 in krill oil is more easily absorbed through the intestinal wall into the bloodstream and utilized by the body, compared to fish oil, which primarily contains omega-3 in the form of triglycerides. In other words, krill oil has higher absorption rates and bioavailability compared to fish oil.

In fat, krill oil is particularly good for acne, especially hormonal acne. THis is because, firstly, it can significantly reduce inflammation levels in the blood and proteins that cause inflammation. The rich content of astaxanthin in krill oil also helps the body and skin counteract inflammatory free radicals. When there is less inflammation in the body, the frequency of acne flare-ups naturally decreases. Secondly, when the liver produces excessive levels of the hormone IGF-1, it can lead to increased skin inflammation. Krill oil helps regulate these hormones and prevents them from causing further inflammatory acne. Thirdly, krill oil aids in the production of eicosanoids, which can regulate inflammatory responses and restore hormone balance, thereby improving acne issues caused by hormonal fluctuations.

Furthermore, krill oil contains the super antioxidant "king of carotenoids" Astaxanthin, which can cross the blood-brain barrier with antioxidant capabilities 6,000 times higher than vitamin C. Krill oil also contains other antioxidants, as well as significant amounts of vitamin A and E, making it superior to fish oil and great for acne.

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｜Algaes for Balancing pH and Removing Heavy Metals and Other Toxins like Pesticides/span>

The skin is healthiest when it maintains a slightly acidic pH of 4.7 on its surface. However, the internal body needs to be in an alkaline state to function properly. When the body's acidity level becomes too high, not only does it lead to skin inflammations like acne, but also increases the risk of heart disease, autoimmune disorders, chronic pain, and other chronic illnesses. It can also result in the depletion of minerals such as calcium, magnesium, potassium, and sodium from the bones and organs!

On the other hand, when heavy metals from environmental pollution, food, and medications accumulate in the body, they gradually disrupt the functions of the skin and can lead to various chronic inflammations like acne.

Algaes contain a wide variety of nutrients, including iron, calcium, magnesium, potassium, selenium, tyrosine, zinc, copper, phosphorous, iodine, polysaccharides, beta-glucans, essential amino acids, fatty acids, carotenoids, phycocyanins, chlorophyll, vitamin A, vitamin C, and various B vitamins, etc., as well as anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and heavy metal chelating properties. Thus, not only do they improve acne, they can also help reduce inflammations and strengthen the immune system, thereby minimizing the chance of future acne flare ups.

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｜Restorative and Anti-Inflammatory MSM

MSM (Methylsulfonylmethane), also known as organic sulfur, is a naturally occurring sulfur found in all living organisms and is the third most abundant substance in the human body. It plays a crucial role in various functions of the body, including supporting normal cell structure, immune system health, reversing cellular damage caused by free radicals, and repairing connective tissues.

Clinical studies have confirmed that MSM can reduce inflammation by reducing the production of pro-inflammatory cytokines, thereby reducing inflammatory reactions. This, in turn, helps reduce skin cell damage and skin inflammatory conditions like acne. Additionally, research has shown that MSM effectively supports the health of connective tissues, which helps improve fragile skin and prevents skin from becoming brittle. This can help prevent bacterial invasion that causes acne, thus in turn reducing the frequency of acne occurence.

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Now that we have cover skin care ingredients and nutrients have been clinically proven to truly help improve acne, we will be going through what skin care ingredients to avoid for acne skin. Stay tuned!

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