How To Properly Layer Skincare Products

Guess what, even with the most amazing skincare products, if you're applying them in the wrong order, you probably won’t get the results you want, as the ingredients won't be able to penetrate and work properly. In fact, this is often one of the reasons people get different results from the same product. So what's the best way to apply products? As a general rule of thumb, after cleansing and masking, you would want to go from the ones that are thinnest in texture, then moving on to the thickest. Obviously there are also some techniques there, which we will get into shortly.

First of all, let's look at the below. While you may not be using all the products listed below, but it should serve as a general guide as to what order different products should be applied.

Penetrability

Products generally contain ingredients that are either humectants, emollients or occlusives. Due to their individual molecular structure and weight, their penetrabilities differ, and thus should be applied in a specific order. So how do you classify them?

Humectants

Humectants extract water molecules from the air (or from deep in the skin when the air is dry) and pull them to the skin’s surface. These ingredients include aloe vera leaf juice, glycerin, hyaluronic acid, glycols, panthenol, honey, and amino acids. Skincare products consist of a high humectant content, such as toner, essence and serums, should always go on first, as they are thinner and runnier in texture.

If you are using two serums, say one is an anti-aging serum and the other is a hydrating serum, the anti-aging serum should be applied first, because hydrating serum, usually consisting of hyaluronic acid, is heavier in weight, and applying the other way may lead to piling.

Product Recommendation
AGENT NATEUR
holi(water) Hyaluronic Pearl & Rose Essence <- Click to shop

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Emollients

Emollients, such as squalane, oils, and panthenol, fill the spaces between skin cells, and provide hydration and softening benefits, thereby restoring the skin's protective barrier with nutrients, and reducing the chance of irritation and bacteria invasion. Being thicker than humectants, they should go on after.

Product Recommendation
MARIE REYNOLDS LONDON
Skin Quencher  <- Click to shop

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OUMERE
Serum Bioluminelle™  <- Click to shop

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Occlusives

Occlusives, which include lecithin, petrolatum, lanolin, mineral oil, plant butters and waxes, such as shea butter and beeswax, are ingredients that basically form a physical barrier or seal on the skin surface to prevent trans-epidermal water loss and keep moisture locked in. This essentially means products with occlusives should always go on last, as products won’t be able to penetrate once this is put on. 

Product Recommendation
TWELVE BEAUTY
Essential Bio-Technological Moisturiser  <- Click to shop

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Retinol

A serum containing retinol should go on after a toner and before other products to allow maximum penetrability. Allow 5-10 minutes for full absorption before applying other products so the active ingredient doesn’t get diluted.

Also, on the nights when you’re using a retinol product, avoid any acid-containing products to avoid any sensitivities, unless your skin is very used to both.

Product Recommendation
KLUR
Stellar Restoration Corrective Complex  <- Click to shop

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Exfoliating Acids

AHAs and PHAs work by dissolving breaking the bonds that hold together the dead skin cells on the skin surface. As these bonds are broken and dead skin cells removed, new, regenerated skin is revealed.

Whilst, since BHA is oil-soluble, it works its way deep into the pores, dissolves sebum, unclog enlarged pores, which in turn reduces acne and improves the appearance of pores.

Therefore, and also because of its low pH, when an acid product is incorporated into a skincare routine, it should always go on first after cleansing, and before a toner. Also note that in order to reap the most benefits, don’t neutralise it prematurely with another product. Rather, give the acids some time (say 15-30 minutes) to do their job before applying another product. 

Product Recommendation
OUMERE
No. 9 Exfoliant <- Click to shop

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