Despite constantly hydrating and moisturizing day and night, the skin still feels dry and tight, with constant redness, sensitivity, inflammation and acne?
All of these is because of a damaged skin barrier!
The truth is, if you don't properly protect and strengthen the skin's protective lipid barrier of the skin, even if you spend thousands or even tens of thousands of dollars on skincare products and treatments every month, your skin will continue to feel angry all the time.
What exactly is the skin barrier? How do you know if your skin barrier is damaged? How can you repair and strengthen its health? Let's break it down in detail!
The skin barrier is the outermost layer of the skin composed of lipids such as ceramides, cholesterol, and saturated fatty acids, hence also known as the "lipid barrier". Together, they form a hydrophobic protective barrier that functions like a line of defense to prevent water loss, while blocking external irritants, allergens, pollutants, and pathogens from invading the skin. Therefore, it plays a crucial role in maintaining skin health.
A lot of factors in our daily life, as well as skincare habits, can damage the skin barrier, including:
- Strong or Alkaline Cleansing Products
Using cleansing products with high cleansing power, products containing sulfates like Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) and Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES), or soaps (including handmade soaps), can overly strip the skin of its natural oils, disrupt the skin's pH balance, and consequently damage the lipid barrier. - Over-Exfoliation
Regular and gentle exfoliation can promote skin health and cell renewal. However, over-exfoliation can remove both aged keratinocytes and healthy cells, as well as cause microscopic tears, subsequently disrupting the skin barrier, thus allowing bacteria to thrive, decreasing skin hydration, and exacerbating various skin issues. - Friction
Vigorous cleansing, facial massages, using cleansing brushes, continuous rubbing of the face with towels and face masks, sleeping on rough pillowcases, using harsh makeup brushes or tools, and aggressive makeup application all contribute to the disruption of the skin barrier. - Skin Microbiome Imbalance
Similar to the gut, the skin requires a balance of "good" and "bad" bacteria. These microbes interact closely with skin cells and the immune system, directly influencing the integrity and function of the skin barrier. When this ecosystem is imbalanced, barrier health is compromised, resulting in sensitivity, eczema, rosacea, inflammation, acne, and a range of other skin issues. - Environmental Factors
High and low temperatures, low humidity, and pollutants can all weaken skin barrier function. - UV Radiation
UV rays penetrate the skin and directly damage skin cells and DNA, which then affect the skin barrier's integrity and function. Furthermore, UV rays interfere with lipid production and function in the skin and induces oxidative stress, consequently disrupting barrier health. - Inflammation
During skin inflammation, inflammatory mediators are released, gradually weakening the skin barrier. When the barrier becomes fragile, the skin in turn becomes prone to inflammation from external irritants, allergens, pollutants, and bacteria, resulting in a vicious cycle. - Free Radicals
Free radicals from pollutants, exhaust fumes, allergens, and even cooking can cause chronic skin inflammation, which can damage the skin barrier, and gradually reduce its protective function. - Stress and Lack of Sleep
Long-term stress, inadequate sleep, and poor sleep quality prevent skin cells from repairing themselves, which can then result in a decrease in skin barrier function. - Poor Nutrition
Imbalanced diet or lack of certain nutrients significantly affect the integrity of the skin barrier. - Aging
As we age, the skin can no longer synthesize sufficient lipids needed for the skin lipid barrier, causing the skin barrier to weaken.
There are many symptoms of a compromised skin barrier, and they can be quite easily spotted. These symptoms include:
- Dryness
When the skin barrier is compromised, the skin may feel dry, tight, or rough due to difficulty in retaining moisture. - Inflammation
Due to a damaged barrier's inability to block allergens, irritants, or pollutants, inflammation, and even conditions like eczema or rosacea, are more likely to occur. - Acne Breakouts
A compromised skin barrier is no longer able to block bacteria and pathogens, which can disrupt the skin's natural balance, leading to an increase in acne breakouts. - Itchiness
When immature skin cells are exposed immaturely due to a damaged skin barrier, the skin can easily feel itchy upon contact with various external factors, including dust and hair. - Sensitivity
Similarly, when immature skin cells are exposed prematurely due to a compromised skin barrier, the skin becomes extra sensitive. Additionally, when the barrier is damaged, skincare ingredients may penetrate more than usual, leading to sudden sensitivity reactions to commonly used skincare products. - Stinging or Burning Sensation
When the barrier is compromised, besides immature skin cells, the nerve endings that should not be exposed are also revealed. Therefore, some individuals may experience a stinging, burning, or tingling sensation when using skincare products or even when in contact with water. - Peeling
Due to inadequate protection, a damaged skin barrier may result in peeling or patchy issues. - Dull, Rough, Uneven Skin Texture
A healthy skin barrier presents a smooth and even texture; however, when damaged, issues like dryness, peeling, inflammation can cause its texture to become uneven, and the skin may feel rough and dull.
｜Replenish the Skin with Lipids
Yes, although the human body is about 70% water, as mentioned above, the lipid barrier is composed of lipids such as ceramides, cholesterol, and saturated fatty acids. As we age, the skin can no longer synthesize enough lipids required for the lipid barrier, and UV rays can further interfere with the production and function of lipids in the skin. This means that to repair, protect, and maintain the lipid barrier, it is essential to replenish the skin with oils.
The best and most direct way to replenish the skin with lipids is by using face oils. In addition to replenishing the skin with various omega fatty acids needed to repair, protect, and maintain the skin barrier, these oils also contain antioxidants, minerals, polyphenols, plant nutrients, and more, which help combat oxidative stress, soothe redness and sensitivity, alleviate inflammation, stimulate collagen production, and strengthen the skin, to simultaneously address issues caused by a compromised barrier, such as dryness, redness, sensitivity, inflammation, eczema, and rosacea, while slowing down the skin's aging process.
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holi(oil) Ageless Face Serum <- Click to Shop
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Serum Bioluminelle™ <- Click to Shop
If face oils are not your thing, you can also choose moisturizers that can cermiade, cholesterol, or plant-based oils. These moisturizers come in various textures, such as hydrogel, emulsion, cream, or balm. Simply choose one based on your skin type and condition.
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Essentialist™ Transitional Moisture Cream <- Click to Shop
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Ceramide Complex Supercharger <- Click to Shop
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holi(crème) Filter Face Crème <- Click to Shop
｜Use Sunscreen Everyday
Regardless of whether it's sunny, cloudy, or rainy, UV rays are always here and can penetrate glass. Not only do they cause pigmentation, accelerate collagen loss, and skin aging, they can also penetrate the skin and directly damage skin cells and DNA, leading to mutations that affect the integrity and function of the skin barrier. In addition, UV rays disrupt lipid production and function in the skin and induce oxidative stress, consequently compromising the health of the lipid barrier.
Therefore, whether you are indoor or outdoor, sunscreen should be used every single day of the year.
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holi(sun) SPF50 Tinted Sunscreen <- Click to Shop
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Less More MO-A™ Daily Sun Cream SPF50+ PA++++ <- Click to Shop
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holi(soleil) SPF50 Ageless Firming & Plumping Sunscreen <- Click to Shop
｜Use Antioxidant Products
It is well known that antioxidants primarily function to resist and neutralize free radicals, thereby preventing issues such as collagen breakdown, and skin cell damage that contribute to skin aging. But do you know that antioxidants are also indispensable for maintaining the health of the lipid barrier?
An average person is exposed to 100,000 to 300,000 free radicals every day——these free radicals can cause chronic inflammation in the skin, gradually compromising the skin barrier and reducing its protective function. Antioxidants can neutralize these free radicals before they cause any harm, reducing chronic inflammation in the skin and maintaining the integrity and health of the barrier. In fact, some antioxidants have the ability to strengthen the health of the skin barrier, while aiding in repairing past damages. A study even found that antioxidants not only act on the surface of the barrier but can also strengthen its structure from within!
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ÂN-BALM™ Radiant Hydra Balm <- Click to Shop
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Symmetry Fluid Skin Supplement Concentrate <- Click to Shop
｜Use Products with Live Probiotic Cultures and Prebiotics
Clinical studies have confirmed that live probiotic cultures can balance the skin microbiome, strengthen skin cells and barrier health, and with their strong antibacterial, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory properties, they can penetrate existing and potential harmful bacteria and eliminate them. Additionally, they can enhance the skin's immune function, promote wound healing, stimulate the production of hyaluronic acid and ceramides, improve dryness, and increase skin elasticity.
On the other hand, prebiotics, as the food for those good bacteria, can strengthen the beneficial bacteria on the skin and enhance skin immunity.
Therefore, regular use of skincare products containing live probiotic cultures and prebiotics can be highly effective in improving compromised barrier function, as well as eczema, rosacea, sensitivity, and acne.
It's important to note that over 99% of skincare products claiming to contain probiotics only contain “xxx ferment”, “xxx lysate”, “xxx ferment lysate”, “xxx ferment filtrate”, or “xxx ferment lysate filtrate” that are completely devoid of live or active cultures. These ingredients do not qualifying as live probiotic cultures and are unable to provide the skincare benefits mentioned above.
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｜Use Gentle Cleansing Products
What we meant by gentle cleansing products are those that are mildly acidic and do not contain sulfates.
Cleansing products containing sulfates such as sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) or sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) can indeed cleanse the skin effectively, but at the same time, they can overly strip away the skin of its natural oils and disrupt the skin's lipid barrier. Not only would this significantly reduce the skin's natural water retention function, leading to issues like dryness, fine lines, and premature aging, but would also weaken the skin's defense capabilities, allowing harmful bacteria and pollutants to penetrate the skin and cause acne, sensitivity, redness, eczema, dermatitis, and other skin inflammation problems.
On the other hand, while the skin's pH is healthiest at a weakly acidic 4.7, when the barrier is compromised, the skin's pH becomes more alkaline. The pH of soap (including handmade soap) typically ranges from alkaline 8.0 to 11.0, which means, if they are used on skin with a compromised barrier, the result would be a even more disrupted barrier, and issues like acne, sensitivity, inflammation would worsen.
Therefore, to help maintain the health and integrity of the skin barrier, it is best to choose non-foaming cleansing products, be it a gel, milk, cream, balm, or oil formula.
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Smooth Operator Purifying Cleanser Gel <- Click to Shop
｜Do Not Exfoliate the Wrong Way
Regular gentle exfoliation can promote skin renewal, but using a cleansing device or a generic face scrub is not a good choice!
Scrubs contain different types of particles for exfoliation, while cleansing devices exfoliate via micro-vibrations. Both can physically remove the skin's surface layer, so yes, they can indeed make the skin feel smoother, but when used improperly, they can greatly damage the skin barrier. First, the friction during the scrubbing and cleansing process can irritate already inflamed skin, making acne, inflammation, and sensitivity problems worse, and possibly spreading to surrounding areas. Second, continuous friction is likely to wear away healthy skin and cause microscopic tears, both of which can damage the skin barrier and significantly reduce the skin's ability to retain moisture and block out bacteria and allergens.
The gentlest and least irritating way to exfoliate is by using products containing low concentrations of AHAs, BHA, PHAs, or enzymes. They can gently remove aged, damaged cells and melanin by dissolving the bond between these aged cells, without harming new and healthy cells. In fact, as long as you choose products with the right formulas, ingredients, and concentrations, even sensitive skin can use them.
Now, if you are sensitive to acids or simply do not want to use them at all, you can choose an oil-based, gentle scrub to minimize friction during exfoliation, thereby keeping irritation at the lowest level.
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No. 9 Exfoliant <- Click to Shop
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Gelée Buff Exfoliating Balm <- Click to Shop
｜Don't Use Anything With Drying Alcohol
Alcohol in skincare products is often used to help with evaporation for a lighter, fresher and dry-to-touch sensation, but it is also this particular property that may irritate the skin. These drying alcohol usually appear as Alcohol, Alcohol Denat., Isopropyl Alcohol, Methanol and SD Alcohol in a product’s ingredient list. When used in high concentrations, they deteriorate the skin’s protective barrier, rendering it ineffective at keeping moisture in and bacteria out, while stimulating oil production. These all may lead to dryness, irritations, and breakouts.
Do note however that not all ingredients with the word ‘alcohol’ is bad. Many are safe and are fatty alcohols that can benefit the skin. For instance, Benzyl Alcohol is a natural component of essential oils and an approved preservative under the COSMOS Organic Certification criteria that can inhibit bacterial reproduction, whereas Stearyl, Cetearyl and Cetyl Alcohol are derived from palm kernel and/or coconut oil, and have skin soothing and softening properties.
｜Take Enough Omega-3
Research shows that consuming sufficient omega-3 fatty acids can nourish the skin, strengthen the skin's natural lipid barrier, and protect the skin from UV damage, thereby improving and preventing skin dryness and dehydration.
At the same time, omega-3 fatty acids can also prevent the production of specific molecules associated with inflammation. This not only helps prevent inflammation issues caused by barrier damage but also helps fundamentally improve conditions such as acne, psoriasis, eczema, rosacea, and other skin inflammatory conditions.
Foods rich in omega-3 fatty acids include salmon, mackerel, sardines, herring, trout, and tuna, as well as nuts and seeds such as flaxseeds, chia seeds, and walnuts.
As for supplements, since cell membranes in the human body are composed of phospholipids, phospholipid-based omega-3 in krill oil is more easily absorbed through the intestinal wall into the bloodstream and efficiently utilized by the body compared to triglyceride-based omega-3 in fish oil. In other words, the absorption rate and bioavailability of krill oil are higher than that of fish oil. Additionally, krill oil contains super antioxidants such as astaxanthin, which can cross the blood-brain barrier, as well as other antioxidants, vitamin A, and E content, making it superior to fish oil. In fact, studies have found that phospholipid-based omega-3 fatty acids in krill oil can reduce inflammatory and hormonal acne by up to 42%!
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Ocean EFA <- Click to Shop
｜Sleep More and Destress
On the surface, sleep and stress may seem unrelated to the skin's lipid barrier, but in reality, insufficient sleep, poor sleep quality, and high levels of stress can elevate cortisol levels, leading to chronic inflammation in the body and skin. Over time, this can weaken the skin's immune response, disrupt the skin microbiome, and even interfere with normal skin barrier function This means that sleep and stress do in fact have a direct and significant impact on the skin barrier.
Therefore, to nurture a healthy skin barrier, in addition to taking good care of your skin with all your skincare products, remember to get enough beauty sleep and learn how to relax and reduce stress!
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calm(beauty) Spermidine + Taurine <- Click to Shop
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