With fall coming in, both the temperature and humidity in the air will start to drop, and the skin's lipid barrier will become more fragile as a result. While dryness is the most prominent symptom of a damaged skin barrier due to an impaired water retention function, the skin will also be more prone to sensitivity, acne, and even inflammation, as it can no longer effectively block out pollution, dirt and bacteria.
It is therefore time to start transitioning your skincare routine, and strengthen the skin for the weather change, so that it does not go into shock when winter comes.
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Step ① Use a Non-Foaming Cleanser
A good skincare routine starts with a good cleanser. Foaming cleansers, which usually contain sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) or sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), strip the skin of its natural oil, and can damage the skin’s lipid barrier, thus weakening its water retention ability, which leads to dryness and pre-mature aging. Its defence ability in stopping harmful bacteria and pollutants from entering the body through the skin will also plummet, resulting in acne, irritations, redness, and inflammations like eczema and dermatitis.
In other words, always use a cream, lotion or non-foaming gel/liquid cleanser, so that the skin will not be stripped of its natural oil, and the lipid barrier can remain healthy and intact.
Product Recommendation
MARIE REYNOLDS LONDON
Goji Mallow Cleanse™ <- Click to shop
Product Recommendation
EATH LIBRARY
Smooth Operator Purifying Cleansing Gel <- Click to shop
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Step ② Exfoliate with Acids
The skin is constantly producing new skin cells and shedding old ones. The rate of this process of cell turnover can be slowed down by factors like sun, wind, pollution, stress, hormones, and age. Thus when the skin looks and feels dry to the touch, sometimes it may not actually be as dehydrated or dry as you think——it may be merely a buildup of dull, dry, discolored, dead skin on the surface, which not only makes the skin appear dull and textured, but also makes it difficult for skincare ingredients to penetrate. Bacteria and excess sebum may also be easily trapped inside the skin, resulting in acne.
A well-formulated gentle acid formula can dissolve the bond between dead skin cells, so that they can shed easier and quicker without irritation even for sensitive skin. The skin surface will be smoothed, pores will be unclogged and minimized, hyperpigmentation will lighten, and skincare ingredients can better penetrate the skin. Over time, it will also stimulate collagen synthesis, thus thickening the dermis and smoothing wrinkles.
Just avoid glycolic acid that can easily irritate, and also physical exfoliation, as these physical particles can easily damage the skin, as well as cause micro-tears, leading to acne, dryness, or worse, permanent damages.
Product Recommendation
OUMERE
No. 9 Exfoliant <- Click to shop
Product Recommendation
AGENT NATEUR
acid(wash) Lactic Acid Brightening Cleanser <- Click to shop
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Step ③ Use a Hydrating Toner Within 60 Seconds After Cleansing
Think about how you wash the dishes. When you squeeze dish-washing liquid to a dry sponge, it won’t get distributed evenly on the sponge, and you won’t be able to clean the dishes effectively. The skin after cleansing is like that dry sponge. Without that extra water in the skin, all the skincare products you put on the skin afterwards won’t get absorbed and distributed in the skin; whereas if you put serums, oils or moisturizer on damp skin, they will be able to penetrate much better.
Moreover, when the air’s humidity is under 70%, humectants like hyaluronic acid in your serums will not be able to pull water vapour from the air to hydrate the skin; instead, they will draw water from the dermis (the second layer of skin) to the epidermis. This essentially means, you will have to replenish the skin with actual water molecules, such as water itself, aloe vera leaf juice, green tea, or hydrosols, so that the humectants can actually have something to draw from.
Product Recommendation
TWELVE BEAUTY
Ultra Revitalising Elixir <- Click to shop
Product Recommendation
AGENT NATEUR
holi(water) Hyaluronic Pearl & Rose Essence <- Click to shop
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Step ④ Add an Anti-Inflammatory Hydrating Serum
Colder weather and hotter showers will accelerate trans-epidermal water loss. It is further accelerated by using heaters at home or in the car. To compensate for this water loss, it is essential to replenish the lost hydration.
However, a serum that merely provides hydration, such as a hyaluronic acid or vitamin B5 serum, is not enough. As mentioned above, a weakened skin barrier is prone to acne, sensitivity and inflammation because it can no longer effectively block out pollution, dirt and bacteria. By choosing a hydrating serum with anti-inflammatory properties and antioxidant properties, the skin will be hydrated, soothed and strengthened at the same time.
Just remember, it is essential to use an oil or moisturiser after a hydrating serum to lock in that hydration.
Product Recommendation
KLUR
Immersion Serum Concentrate <- Click to shop
Product Recommendation
TWELVE BEAUTY
Ideal Moisture Level Serum <- Click to shop
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Step ⑤ Replenish Lipid with a Face Oil
While the body is made up of up to 70% water, the outermost layer of the skin, aka stratum corneum, is made up of ceramide, cholesterol and saturated fatty acids. Together they create a water-impermeable, protective layer to prevent excessive water loss, and act as a barrier against the entry of bacteria. However, the levels of these lipids decline with age; as a result, upper layers of the skin become thinner.
On top of that natural loss of lipids, the colder weather further weakens and damages the barrier. The result is skin that is more prone to dryness, dullness and conditions such as acne, eczema and psoriasis, whilst fine lines and wrinkles become more prominent.
This means, not only do you need to add hydration, you also need to add oil to achieve healthy skin. By replenishing the skin with lipids, antioxidants, vitamins, minerals and polyphenols that are abundant in oils, not only will the skin feel moisturized, the skin will also be able to fortify itself, retain optimal moisture, fight free radicals, stimulate collagen production, and maintain a healthier, stronger barrier to effectively improve skin issues such as dryness, eczema, irritations, oiliness and wrinkles, thereby slowing the aging process.
By building stronger barrier functions via oils, the skin will be able to lock in moisture naturally, and you may not even need a moisturiser. In fact, for those that are prone to clogged pores, an oil may be even better than using a moisturiser.
Product Recommendation
OUMERE
Serum Bioluminelle™ <- Click to shop
Product Recommendation
AGENT NATEUR
holi(oil) Ageless Face Serum <- Click to shop
____________________________________
Step ⑥ Use Moisturizer Sparingly
While some skin, with a compromised skin barrier, will benefit from a heavier moisturizer as it helps to lock in that water brought to the skin by a hydrating toner and serum, if you are prone to clogged pores, you may need to be careful.
This is because, putting on layers upon layers of moisturizer on the skin, or using heavy ones with mainly occlusives, only mean this thick physical barrier will sit on top of the skin 24/7. Dead skin cells will then be stuck to the skin and unable to shed naturally; excess sebum, dirt and bacteria will also be trapped in the skin, leading to clogged pores and acne.
Therefore, we suggest choosing a lightweight one that nourishes and at the same time, provides other benefits. Also, remember, a thin layer of moisturizer is all you need for it to work.
Product Recommendation
EATH Library
All Day Radiance Light Concentration Cream <- Click to shop
Product Recommendation
MARIE REYNOLDS LONDON
Skin Quencher <- Click to shop
Product Recommendation
Twelve Beauty
Nutritive Repair Emulsion <- Click to shop
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Step ⑦ Mask When Needed
Do you need to mask everyday for hydration? The short answer is no. If you feel like you need to use a hydrating mask every other day, or even need to use a paper mask every night, then you should probably take a look at your existing routine, and re-read Step 1 to Step 6 above, as you are likely not hydrating your skin or protecting your lipid barrier properly.
However, when you feel like your barrier is compromised, such as after being out in the cold or in a heated room, after laser treatments or being on a plane, or if there’s an important date coming up, then ramping up usage frequency as an intensive course of treatment would be beneficial.
A sleeping mask that does more than pure hydration will also greatly benefit the skin. Our skin is at its most reparative state when we sleep, and what a sleeping mask does, is locking in all the moisture and nutrients previously given to the skin, whilst providing the skin with extra nutrients to address specific skin concerns. Just remember, a light layer is all you need.
Product Recommendation
EATH LIBRARY
The Bright Recovery Brightening Overnight Mask <- Click to shop
Product Recommendation
MARIE REYNOLDS
Butter Balm <- Click to shop
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