Who doesn't want pore-less skin? Now, although that is biologically impossible, gaining a better (and correct) understanding of pores will help you achieve smoother skin with less visible pores.
So today, let's go through some facts and myths about pore care, and the best ways to improve and minimize the appearance of pores. But first, it's important to understand why pores can appear large.
Our pore size is genetically determined from birth, so if your parents and family tend to have more refined skin, or if you have genetically dry skin (only 15% of the population have genetically dry skin, an actual skin type——telltale signs being minimal pores, no acne and dry body skin), then you are one of the lucky ones.
However, regardless whether you were born with comparatively smaller pores than the average person, pores can easily become larger due to the below four main reasons:
- Excess sebum, oxidation, dirt and dead skin cells can clog pores. When the pores are overfilled, they would stretch and the opening would enlarge, making the pores more noticeable.
- As we age, our body's natural production of elastin and collagen drop, resulting in loss of elasticity. This in turn causes the skin to stretch and sag, resulting in pores that appear larger.
- Photoaging is another reason your pores may appear enlarged. This is because UV rays damage collagen and elastin, whilst removing water from the skin. This causes the tissue beneath your skin to shrink and the edges of your pores collapse and sag, making them look bigger.
- By continuously picking the skin, or squeezing or using a needle to remove pimples and blackheads, you may eventually damage the pore lining. This makes it very hard for the skin to heal itself and return to its original state, especially so as we age. The result is enlarged pores.
| NO ❌
As said above, our pore size is genetically determined, thus their sizes cannot be physically changed. In addition, because pores are not muscles, contrary to popular belief, they do not and cannot open or close.
What steam or warm towel and water does, is help loosen the oil, wax and dirt inside the pores, making them easier to be cleansed away, but won’t actually open the pores like a door. When there is nothing clogging the pores, they would obviously appear smaller.
Also, heat can cause enlargement of the superficial blood vessels in the skin, and cause temporary skin swelling, which will make the pore appear smaller, but only until the skin cools back down. In addition, even though the pores may temporarily appear smaller, the heat can potentially disrupt the skin barrier, making the skin more sensitive and prone to trauma.
Same goes for cold water, toner or mask. They can temporarily cause the skin to tighten, like goosebumps during winter, but what they can't do, is actually shrinking your actual pore size whatsoever.
| YES ✅
Research shows that 70-80% of skin aging such as pigmentation, wrinkles, and open pores is due to UV rays. In fact, when comparing between people living in areas with less and more daylight, those living in areas with less daylight have been found to have less noticeable pores.
This is because UV exposure can lead to the degradation of collagen, which then leads to the enlargement of pores due to a lack of compression in the follicle opening. Additionally, the loss of skin elasticity, as a result of UV exposure and photoaging, can contribute to the appearance of larger pores.
Product Recommendation
OUMERE
UV-R™ <- Click to shop
| NO ❌
If you do some research, every dermatologist actually advises against using this method for blackheads or pore care.
Vaseline contains 100 percent petroleum jelly (a mixture of mineral oils and waxes), meaning it is a purely occlusive product that seals moisture in, but does nothing beyond that, not even adding moisture. In fact, it can seal all the bacteria, oil and dirt in the skin, essentially pushing them deeper into the skin and making problems worse (even worse if you put a plastic wrap over it).
What does help though, is using cleansing oil that emulsifies. While water doesn't mix with hardened sebum and proteins stuck in the pores, oil can melt them way, and help pores appear smaller. We do however recommend against using pure jojoba oil or olive oil as suggested by some online articles, because without the emulsification process, it doesn't actually cleanse the skin, and could even worsen pore issues in the long-term.
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Agent Nateur
holi(cleanse) Cleansing Face Oil <- Click to shop
Product Recommendation
TWELVE BEAUTY
Charcoal Peace Calming Cleanser <- Click to shop
| YES ✅
When you shave the hair on your face with a razor, the cross-section of the hair may appear black, making the pores more noticeable. However, if you do laser or IPL hair removal, the hair will start going into its resting phase, then falls out with less regrowth, thus the pores where the hairs are used to be will become less visible.
In addition, the heat generated from laser and IPL can stimulate collagen production, which can tighten and firm the pores that are sagging due to loss of elasticity and collagen from aging, making them appear smaller.
| NO ❌
It is said that blue light, which is a visible light of the sun, is involved in skin aging, but the amount of blue light emitted from smartphones and computers is minimal. Therefore, it doesn't really have a significant negative impact on pores.
In fact, if you are usually wearing foundation, powder or sunscreen that consist of zinc oxide and/or iron oxide, then you are already protected, as they are highly effective in blue light protection.
However, if you are truly concerned, consider using a blue light protector for your smartphone and computer screen.
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TWELVE BEAUTY
Artemisia Power Protection Moisturiser SPF50+ <- Click to shop
| YES ✅
Research has shown that poor gut health can lead to dry skin, weakened barrier function, and clogged pores, resulting in the appearance of larger pores. Therefore, taking a probiotic supplement to improve gut health can indirectly affect the size of pores.
On the other hand, probiotics, especially when used topically, have also been found to induce fibroblast's differentiation, migration, collagen deposition, as well as peptides, ceramides, and growth factor production, besides being excellent for treating inflammatory conditions. In layman terms, they can improve firmness, dryness, and youthfulness of the skin, all of which help reduce the appearance of pore size.
It is important to know that probiotic, as officially defined in 2001 by the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations (FAO) and the WHO officially, is “live microorganisms which when administered in adequate amounts confer a health benefit on the host”. The definition was further reinforced in 2013 by the International Association for Probiotics and Prebiotics (“ISAPP”).
This essentially means, the widely accepted scientific definition around the world for probiotics equal live cultures, and thus if a product does not contain live cultures, it simply does not contain probiotics.
Here is the problematic part——99%+ of topical skin care products that claim to contain probiotics do not contain live cultures. This is because unless a product is in powder form or anhydrous, preservatives or antimicrobial agents are needed to keep products stable and prevent the proliferation of harmful microbes. This would render any probiotic cultures inert and therefore useless, as at the moment, there is no preservative system sophisticated enough to differentiate between “good” and “bad” bacteria.
In other words, only products that contain live cultures in powder form, will be able to provide the activities and benefits mentioned above. As a consumer you WILL know, because they are ALWAYS specified and listed clearly by strains, and never ambiguous.
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MARIE REYNOLDS LONDON
Restore <- Click to shop
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MARIE REYNOLDS LONDON
Probio+ <- Click to shop
| DIRECTLY NO ❌ BUT INDIRECTLY YES ✅
Regular physical activity helps to increase blood flow and circulation, which in turn helps bring more nutrients and oxygen to the skin, making it younger-looking and more resilient. However, it does not necessarily lead to a reduction in the appearance of pores.
On the other hand, not cleansing properly after exercising can lead to enlarged pores as sebum and dirt get trapped in the pores. Not using sunscreen and/or reapplying sunscreen when exercising outdoors can also contribute to enlarged pores due to collagen loss from photoaging. Also, while sweat from exercising is not harmful to the skin, when the proteins in our sweat combine with the sugars on our skin, glycation occurs, resulting in AGEs that can lead to issues such as clogged pores, sagging, and eventually enlarged pores. Therefore it is important to use sunscreen, cleanse properly, and use skincare products with anti-glycation benefits.
| YES ✅
It has been shown that long-term effect of sauna and bathing includes increasing the number of capillaries and moisture levels in the skin, as well as increasing the oxygenation rate in the arterial blood, giving the skin a pinkish color and a healthier appearance. Additionally, it can activate the sympathetic nervous system, leading to an increased turnover of sebum and reduced dryness, resulting in skin that is less likely to have noticeable pores.
| NO ❌
While the upper skin layers (up to 0.25–0.40 mm deep) does take up atmospheric oxygen, the skin is not a part of our respiratory system, thus does not "breathe". Basically, our skin gets its oxygen and nutrients delivered from our blood supply.
So, using foundation doesn't stop the skin from breathing, nor does it suffocate the skin. In fact, many studies have found that those who wear foundation actually age slower than those who do not wear foundation regularly, as foundation provides an additional physical barrier against UV rays, pollution, and irritants from directly damaging the skin.
Of course, if the foundation is not removed properly, for instance, not using a proper makeup removing cleansing oil or balm and relying on one water-based cleanser to removing makeup and cleanse the face, or if it is applied for a prolonged period of time every day (for example, sleeping with makeup), it may clog pores and cause acne and enlarged pores. In other words, it is more an issue of cleansing, and not the actual application of foundation.
Also, make sure that the foundation is of high quality (i.e. no pore-clogging ingredients), not too heavy in texture, and suitable for your skin to reduce the chance of clogged pores and sensitivity.
| YES ✅
With a buildup of dead skin cells and excess sebum, not only will the skin feels rough and dull, pores will also get clogged and enlarged, as dirt and excess sebum get trapped within the skin.
AHAs and PHAs work by dissolving and breaking the bonds that hold together the dead skin cells on the skin surface. As these bonds are broken, dead skin cells get shedded naturally, and new, regenerated skin is revealed. Now, while all acids and enzymes work on the top layers of skin, BHAs can also work inside the pores to remove excess sebum as they are oil-soluble, making it the best choice for improving pores, acne, whiteheads, and blackheads.
Now, although acids may sound irritating to many, with the right acid combination and concentration in a well-rounded, carefully thought out formulation, they can actually be used by all skin types to target acne, pigmentation, uneven skin tone and rough texture if used properly, including sensitive, rosacea and eczema skin.
In fact, with continued use, they also stimulate collagen and hyaluronic acid deposition and synthesis, meaning thicker dermis, increased elasticity, less wrinkles, as well as smaller, tighter pores!
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Agent Nateur
holi(bright) Resurface Glass Face Mask <- Click to shop
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OUMERE
No. 9 Exfoliant <- Click to shop
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AGENT NATEUR
acid(wash) Lactic Acid Brightening Cleanser <- Click to shop
| NO ❌
Scrubs are not oil-soluble, nor are they smaller in size than the pores, which means they cannot cannot get into the pores, unclog them, and make them appear smaller.
On the contrary, scrubbing the face will slough away healthy skin cells besides removing dead skin cells on the top layer of the skin. It may also cause micro-tears, as well as wounds in existing acne, while the friction involved in the scrubbing process will irritate the skin, causing inflammation. All these create an opening for bacteria to attack the skin, as well as dryness and dehydration. More bacteria and inflammation means more acne, more dryness and dehydration means less skin elasticity, both of which can result in more enlarged pores.
| YES ✅
Pores can enlarge with loss of skin elasticity and sagging caused by a depletion of collagen and elastin, thus it is vital to use products that can effectively encourage skin cell turnover and stimulate collagen production to help support the collagen around the pores, so they will stay tight, thereby preventing them appear large and dragged down into an oval shape.
Certain ingredients in skincare products as well as supplements can help with tightening existing pores and preventing them from getting enlarged moving forward, which are equally important.
Retinol is one of the few potent anti-aging ingredients that is widely recognized by both the dermatological and scientific communities. This star ingredient not only activates collagen and epidermal growth factor receptors, promotes cellular turnover, and stimulates self collagen and elastin production, thereby reducing pore size and wrinkles, it is also highly effective in treating acne, dullness, scarring, hyperpigmentation and rough skin texture.
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KLUR
Sculpture + A Overnight Enrichment Cream <- Click to shop
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KLUR
Stellar Restoration Corrective Complex <- Click to shop
Clinically studies have proven this French-patented, expensive ingredient can increase elastin synthesis by 40-45%, increases self hyaluronic acid synthesis by 36-92%, lift skin by 27%, and improve skin elasticity by 16% with 28 days of continued use day and night. Which means, in short, smaller pores, less wrinkles and plumper skin!
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AGENT NATEUR
holi(c) The C Duo <- Click to shop
Oxidative stress and free radical damage break down collagen and elastin fibers, hinders skin’s natural repair process and triggers inflammation, resulting in enlarged pores, fine lines and wrinkles, and loss of elasticity. By scavenging free radicals, antioxidants can help prevent and correct these visible signs of aging. Don’t rely on just one kind of antioxidant though, as research has shown that different antioxidants target different free radicals differently, so choose a product that contains a variety of antioxidants——and the more the better.
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KLUR
Symmetry Fluid <- Click to shop
Product Recommendation
ANFISA
LILOU Radiant Hydra Balm <- Click to shop
Peptides are made up of amino acids that are fragments of proteins needed by the skin, like collagen and elastin. When amino acids are combined in certain formations they create specific peptides, which in turn become specific proteins that make up the skin’s foundation, and are responsible for its texture, strength and resilience. In skincare products, Palmitoyl tripeptide-5, Acetyl Hexapeptide-37, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (also called Palmitoyl Oligopeptide), Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, as well as Soy and Rice Peptides, have been found to stimulate collagen and hyaluronic acid synthesis, and contribute to the significant reduction in the appearance of pore size in as little as 4 weeks.
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EATH LIBRARY
The Pure Wonder Active Serum <- Click to shop
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Skin Quencher <- Click to shop
Not only does Niacinamide repair damage and neutralize free radicals that can cause the breakdown of collagen and elastin, it also increases collagen production in the dermis, normalizes collagen, and inhibits glycation, thus keeping collagen and elastin supple and flexible, which ultimately reduces and prevents enlarged pores, as well as fine lines and wrinkles.
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All Day Radiance Light Concentration Cream <- Click to shop
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Ultra Revitalising Elixir <- Click to shop
Besides being a great antioxidant that helps protect the skin from oxidative damage, which can lead to the enlargement of pores, Vitamin C also stimulates collagen production and helps rebuild the skin's structure, meaning tighter, firmer-looking pores. However, it is important to choose the right form of Vitamin C (as there are many.
L'Ascorbic Acid is the most potent form of vitamin C in skincare. However, it has to be at a pH level of 3.5 or lower for it to stay stable, otherwise it will oxidize very rapidly, rendering the product useless. By using such an acidic product everyday morning and night, the skin’s pH level will be affected, the lipid barrier will be damaged, and the skin’s delicate microbiome of bacteria that maintains a proper balance necessary for a disease-free environment will be disrupted. When this happens, the skin gets sick in the form of acne and dermatitis, which then, can actually result in enlarged pores.
Whilst, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP), although less potent than Ascorbic Acid, is more bioavailable as it is readily absorbed and utilized by the skin without causing any irritation, making it the perfect go-to Vitamin C form for all skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin, as well as pregnant/breastfeeding ladies. It has been shown to stimulate collagen and elastin synthesis and angiogenesis, stabilize collagen fibers, and decrease collagen degradation in dermal fibroblasts, increase dermis thickness, minimize pores, decrease scar depth, encourage skin cells and tissue regeneration and accelerate wound healing. What’s better, it has an added benefit of being an amazing acne fighter!
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KLUR
Brilliant Light Multi-Correction Repair Serum <- Click to shop
Thanks to its high adsorption and absorption capacities, as well as extremely fine particle size, kaolin clay can cling to impurities, dirt, pollution, grime, and bacteria in the pores and remove them from the skin. The pores are thus unclogged and tightened, without stripping or causing trauma to the skin.
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TWELVE BEAUTY
The London Mask <- Click to shop
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KLUR
Supreme Seed Delicate Purification Mask <- Click to shop
Inflammation of the skin can lead to acne and then enlarged pores. Krill oil, which contains phospholipids, omega-3 fatty acids such as DHA and EPA, as well as vitamin A, and shown to be absorbed 68% better than fish oil, was found to reduce inflammatory acne by an impressive 42 percent, while another study shows it can block the production of a specific molecule involved in inflammation.
Krill oil also contains astaxanthin and vitamin A, which studies have shown to help reduce pore size and wrinkles while improving skin texture and moisture content, by fighting free radicals and preventing the loss and degradation of collagen.
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MARIE REYNOLDS LONDON
Ocean EFA <- Click to shop
Various clinical studies have shown that age-dependent reduction in collagen synthesis can be reversed by ingesting high quality marine collagen, which are metabolized to bioactive di- and tri-peptides in the gastrointestinal tract, and then released into the blood stream and accumulated in the skin to form new collagen, increase hyaluronic acid synthesis, and promote the production of other proteins that help structure the skin, including elastin and fibrillin, thereby plumping skin, preventing wrinkles, sagging, enlarged pores, dryness, and increasing elasticity.
With that being said, not all marine collagen is the same though, because the environment in which the fishes lived can play a role in the quality of the collagen supplement. While marine collagen is cleaner than bovine (land animals live in farms and more often than not, the conditions are not ideal, can be dirty and some may even be treated with antibiotics or contaminated feed), be sure to choose only wild-caught ones, as the open sea does not have antibiotics or food additives (yes, some brands do use farm-raised fish), and those that come from areas with the least pollution.
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AGENT NATEUR
holi(mane) Hair, Skin & Nails Daily Supplement <- Click to shop
| NO ❌
First of all, you have to understand that every time you go for extraction, you are just dealing with the "refills", which will come back within days. Worse yet, if the dirt and pus are pushed in the wrong direction, or pushing too aggressively, they can be pushed down into the skin and cause the follicle to become more inflamed, which then triggers even more worse inflammation and bacterial infection. Additionally, if the same spot is being treated wrongly or too often, the pore lining may get damaged, resulting in larger pores and even scarring.
Instead of extraction, it is much more effective to get on a skincare routine with acids, retinol, and kaolin to keep the pores as clear as possible.
| YES ✅
When you are not sleeping enough, or if your sleep quality is bad, the skin renewal process and metabolism get disrupted, which would in turn trap dirt and excess sebum inside the pores, causing them to enlarge.
Additionally, sleep deprivation can also lead to chronic inflammation and increased cortisol level, which then result in acne, and in turn, enlarge the pores.
They don't call it "beauty sleep" for no reasons!
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Zedz <-Click to shop
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 understanding of pores will help you achieve smoother skin with less visible pores.
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