Free shipping for HK orders HK$600+
July 10, 2025
Acne, eczema, rosacea, and other skin issues are undoubtedly troublesome, but red and brown acne marks, pigmentation, are equally bothersome.
To effectively and quickly make them fade away, it's important to understand that red and brown acne marks and pigmentation have fundamental differences, and therefore, the methods of care are not the same.
Let's explain their differences to help you understand how to distinguish between the two, and the correct and most effective ways to prevent, improve, and lighten them!
(Due to the length of the content, we have already discussed how to prevent and improve the red ones. For details, refere to How to Prevent and Improve Post-Inflammatory Erythema .)
The human skin consists of the epidermis, dermis, and subcutaneous tissue. If the damage caused by acne reaches the dermis and subcutaneous tissue, the skin may develop indentation scars, such as craters and icepick scars. These depressed acne scars are difficult to treat with topical skincare products alone, but retinoids, acid-based products, microneedling, and exosomes can help improve these scar issues to some extent.
On the other hand, acne marks and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation refer to the red or brown marks left behind after acne and inflammation heal. In dermatology, the pink or red marks are called Post-Inflammatory Erythema (PIE), while the brown marks are referred to as Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH).
Most people would categorize them as the same type of things, but their mechanisms of appearance are completely different, hence the methods of improvement also differ.
After acne, inflammation, or trauma, the appearance of brown marks and spots on the skin is referred to as Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH) in dermatology.
Inflammatory Skin Conditions
Skin Trauma
Exposure to Sunlight
Inflammatory Response
Melanin Production
Melanosomes Transfer
Persistence of Pigmentation
Due to fundamental differences between "Post-Inflammatory Erythema" and "Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation," it is important to understand how to effectively improve and lighten them by first distinguishing between the two.
Color
Characteristics
Duration
As shown in the image above, the causes and mechanisms behind the appearance of brown marks and spots after acne and inflammation are very complex. In fact, there is no single skincare ingredient that can target all of the skin mechanisms mentioned above. Therefore, to truly improve these brown post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation marks, relying on one single brightening ingredient is simply not enough. In fact, it is necessary to approach it from multiple angles, including:
Since we have discuseed how to soothe and improve inflammations in our last article, we won't be repeating everything here.
For details, please refer to:How to Prevent and Improve Post-Inflammatory Erythema .
Tyrosinase is a key enzyme involved in melanin production. When the skin experiences inflammation or injury, as part of the immune response, the skin would signal melanocytes through melanocyte-activating factors to stimulate the activity of tyrosinase. Tyrosine would then convert into L-DOPA, which would then transform into two types of melanin: eumelanin and pheomelanin.
In other words, by using tyrosinase inhibitors to prevent the conversion of tyrosine to L-DOPA, melanin production would be halted. Thus, inhibiting tyrosinase is crucial in treating post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
Some common tyrosinase-inhibiting skincare ingredients include:
Product Recommendation
KLUR
Brilliant Light Multi-Correctional Repair Serum <- Click to Shop
Product Recommendation
AGENT NATEUR
holi(c) The C Duo <- Click to Shop
Product Recommendation
KLUR
Essentialist™ Transitional Moisture Cream <- Click to Shop
Product Recommendation
HANISUL
Less More MO-A™ Advanced Ampoule <- Click to Shop
Product Recommendation
AGENT NATEUR
holi(lift) Ageless Lifting and Firming Serum <- Click to Shop
Product Recommendation
HANISUL
Less More Noni Mild Cream <- Click to Shop
Product Recommendation
OUMERE
The Eye Serum <- Click to Shop
Product Recommendation
ANFISA
ÂN-DEW 10% Azelaic Acid + PHA Serum <- Click to Shop
Product Recommendation
KLUR
Symmetry Fluid Skin Supplement Concentrate <- Click to Shop
Product Recommendation
EATH LIBRARY
Smooth Operator Purifying Cleanser Gel <- Click to Shop
When melanosomes inside the melanocytes produce a large amount of melanin and thus arken, they would slowly transfer in large quantities to nearby epidermal keratinocytes. Upon accumulation to a certain extent, they would become visible post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, manifested as brown marks or patches.
In other words, to reduce the appearance of pigmented acne marks, it is essential to intercept this transfer process.
Some skincare ingredients that can effectively inhibit this transfer process include:
Product Recommendation
EATH LIBRARY
The Pure Wonder Active Serum <- Click to Shop
Product Recommendation
TWELVE BEAUTY
Ultra Revitalising Elixir <- Click to Shop
Product Recommendation
HANISUL
Less More MO-A™ Intense Repairing Mask <- Click to Shop
Inhibiting tyrosinase activity and melanin transfer is crucial in preventing melanin accumulation in keratinocytes. But what about brown marks, patches, and spots that have already formed and are visible?
These visible marks and spots signify a build-up of melanized melanosomes within the various layers of the epidermal keratinocytes. Therefore, to improve them, it is necessary to promote cell renewal and cell turnover to reduce the number of keratinocytes laden with melanin deposits.
It is important to note that even if you're receiving any treatment in a beauty clinic claiming to "disperse" melanin, it simply means that melanin would no longer be heavily concentrated in one area, not that they have vanished completely into thin air. Ultimately, they still need to be eliminated from the epidermis through cell turnover and renewal.
Some of the most effective skincare ingredients to do this job include:
Product Recommendation
KLUR
Stellar Restoration Corrective Complex <- Click to Shop
Product Recommendation
KLUR
Sculpture + A Overnight Enrichment Cream <-Click to Shop
Product Recommendation
OUMERE
No. 9 Exfoliant <- Click to Shop
Product Recommendation
AGENT NATEUR
acid(wash) Lactic Acid Brightening Cleanser <- Click to Shop
Product Recommendation
KLUR
Supreme Seed Delicate Purification Mask <- Click to Shop
Product Recommendation
HANISUL
Less More Noni Toner Fluid <- Click to Shop
Product Recommendation
HANISUL
Less More MO-A™ Daily Sun CreamSPF50+ PA++++ <- Click to Shop
When the skin absorbs ultraviolet rays, it triggers an inflammatory response. As part of the immune response, the skin signals melanocytes to produce more melanin. In other words, using sunscreen is the most basic step to prevent and improve PIH.
But what about on cloudy days or when staying indoor the whole day, do you still need sunscreen?
Cloudy days do not mean you are not exposed to UV radiation. While it is true that under a cloudless sky, UV levels are highest, and thick cloud cover can reduce UV radiation, thin or light clouds hardly block UV rays at all and may even enhance UV levels through scattering. Additionally, even in shaded areas like between buildings or under umbrellas, prolonged sitting under the sun can still lead to sunburn.
Furthermore, many substances reflect UV radiation, increasing the overall UV exposure on the skin. For example, grass, soil, and water reflect about 10% of UV rays, beach sand reflects about 15%, ocean foam reflects about 25%, and freshly fallen snow can nearly double the overall UV radiation!
Staying indoors does not mean you can skip sunscreen either. Glass used in cars, homes, and office windows does not completely block UVB rays. This means that even indoors, being close to windows can expose your skin to UV damage due to light and various material reflections. Studies have shown that for drivers who drive on the right, their right face and arm receive significantly more UV damage than the left side, and vice versa.
Thus, whether it's sunny, cloudy, or rainy, indoors or outdoors, it is essential to use sunscreen to protect your skin from UV radiation and prevent excessive melanin production.
Product Recommendation
AGENT NATEUR
holi(soleil) SPF50 Ageless Firming & Plumping Sunscreen <- Click to Shop
Product Recommendation
HANISUL
Less More MO-A™ Daily Sun Cream SPF50+ PA++++ <- Click to Shop
Product Recommendation
AGENT NATEUR
holi(sun) SPF50 Tinted Sunscreen <- Click to Shop
Product Recommendation
TWELVE BEAUTY
Artemisia Power Protection Moisturiser SPF50+ <- Click to Shop
August 06, 2025
Can budget-friendly skincare products really provide optimal benefits? Are high-end ones necessarily better, or are people just paying for their brand names?
July 08, 2025
June 03, 2025
Understand and learn how to cleanse correctly and effectively to help improve existing skin conditions!
Subscribe to get skincare knowledge delivered to your inbox!