Cleansing is the most basic and crucial step in achieving flawless, healthy skin. Proper and effective cleansing can improve various skin conditions; on the other hand, using the wrong cleansing methods or products, which can cause serious damage to skin health, and make the skin more prone to sensitivity, redness, and even lead to recurring issues like acne, sensitivity, rosacea, and eczema.
Today, let's delve into the correct cleansing methods that can effectively improve skin conditions.
Oily and acne-prone skin, and even many people during the hot summer months, often make the mistake of using cleansing products that over-cleanse the skin in an attempt to wash away the oily feeling on the skin or thinking the skin is not clean enough.
These products contain various irritating and drying ingredients, such as surfactants like the alkaline sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) and sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), which overly strip away the natural oils needed to maintain healthy skin, making it difficult for the skin to balance its water-oil protective structure, while damaging the skin's lipid barrier. Moreover, their alkaline nature can disrupt the skin's pH balance, which is harmful to skin health!
In fact, when you feel that your skin is exceptionally clean, or even tight or dry after cleansing, it is a sign of a compromised barrier!
What problems arise when the barrier is compromised? The function of the skin's lipid barrier is to prevent moisture loss while blocking bacteria, allergens, and irritants from entering the skin. In other words, when the barrier is compromised or weakened, the skin not only loses moisture and becomes dehydrated, but it also becomes prone to inflammation due to the inability to resist invasion by bacteria and allergens, resulting in redness, sensitivity, and even issues like acne, eczema, and rosacea.
Moreover, when the skin continues to be inflamed, the skin's aging process accelerates, ultimately leading to loose, less elastic skin, and premature wrinkles!
Therefore, when choosing cleansing products, it is recommended to opt for gentle formulas that do not contain SLS or SLES surfactants. Gel, milk, cream, or oil-based cleansers can be chosen based on individual skin type and needs.
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Many people, out of fear of drying out their skin or causing sensitivity, only wash their face with water in the morning. However, this practice can actually lead to dry, sensitive skin and even problems like acne and inflammation. There are three reasons to this:
｜Remove traces of skincare from the previous night
Unless you don’t use any skincare products at all, chances are, there will be residue of products from the previous night left on the skin surface no matter how much they get absorbed by the skin throughout the night, whilst some products are actually designed to form a film on the skin for protection and repair purposes. Additionally, some ingredients in skincare products are oil-soluble, so water alone cannot wash them away.
In other words, if you don't use a cleansing product in the morning to thoroughly remove these residues, they can accumulate and clog pores, leading to blackheads, acne, and even triggering sensitivity and inflammation. Moreover, the ingredients in skincare products used in the morning will not be able to penetrate the skin properly, rendering the use of expensive skincare products ineffective. In fact, your makeup will not glide on as smoothly as it should either.
｜Wash away the dead skin cells, aging cells, and excess sebum accumulated overnight
Your skin enters its most active state of self-repair and cell renewal while you sleep. In other words, even though not visible to the naked eye, your skin surface or pores would likely have accumulated dead skin cells, aging cells, and excess sebum overnight. Additionally, after tossing and turning in bed, there's a high chance of saliva, sweat, and even traces of hand cream, hair oil, and more on your face. Therefore, properly cleansing your face in the morning is essential to prevent issues like acne and sensitivity.
｜Remove bacteria, irritants, and allergens from the skin
The circulating air from fans, air conditioning, and heating systems can stir up dust, mold, and other environmental irritants and allergens; of course, they can also settle on your face from open windows. Don't forget about the bacteria, dust mites, hair products, and more on your pillowcases, blankets, or even the person sleeping next to you! If you don't thoroughly wash them off in the morning and let them stick to your face all day, acne, sensitivity, and inflammation, are sure to follow!
The truth is, high-quality cleansing products nowadays generally contain hydrating and nourishing ingredients, meaning that not only would they not dry out your skin but they can actually provide nutrients and hydration. If you feel dry or tight after cleansing, it's most likely not because of the cleansing action itself, but due to using unsuitable cleansing products or techniques.
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Won't double cleansing irritate the skin and make it more sensitive and fragile?
In fact, not double cleansing can lead to various skin issues!
Think about it, even if you don't wear makeup, in the morning, you'll likely use products like toner, serums, moisturizer, and sunscreen. These products not only contain water-soluble ingredients but also oil-soluble substances (especially in moisturizers and sunscreens). Moreover, besides skincare products, everything else that comes into contact with our faces is either water-soluble or oil-soluble! For instance, sweat and certain dirt are water-soluble, but our excess sebum, makeup, environmental pollutants, cooking fumes, etc., are all oil-soluble. This means that only oil-based makeup removers, cleansing or cleansing balms, can effectively dissolve these oil-based substances, as typical water-based cleansers cannot completely dissolve and remove them since water and oil don't mix.
When these oil-based impurities are not thoroughly washed away during daily cleansing, they start to accumulate, leading to clogged pore blockages, and ulimately blackheads, whiteheads, acne, sensitivity, and various forms of inflamatiions. Additionally, subsequent skincare products cannot penetrate effectively, rendering the use of even high-quality skincare products ineffective in improving skin conditions.
In other words, even if you are staying home and wearing only sunscreen with no makeup, you should still embrace the concept of "removing" before "cleansing".
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Many people believe that if they only apply sunscreen without makeup, there is no need to specifically remove sunscreen at night. However, sunscreen products actually form a film on the skin surface to provide long-lasting, waterproof sun protection, which means their formulas contain ingredients that cannot be completely removed with water alone. Therefore, using a cleansing oil or cleansing balm to remove sunscreen is necessary.
We have already explained the principle behind this in detail above.
A study compared the residues left on the face after cleansing with water, regular cleansers, and oil-based cleansers (cleansing oils/balms) for long-lasting, waterproof sunscreen formulas. The results showed that when sunscreen was removed with water alone, the residue was 59.3% ± 10.4%, with regular cleansers it was 36.8% ± 8.8%, while with oil-based cleansers it was only 5.8% ± 3.3%, which was not significantly different from the negative control group at 3.2% ± 2.2%.
Citing Literature: Chen W, He M, Xie L, Li L. The optimal cleansing method for the removal of sunscreen:Water, cleanser or cleansing oil? J Cosmet Dermatol. 2020; 19: 180–184. https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.12995
If sunscreen is not completely removed at night, the residue may mix with sweat, dirt, and our natural oils, which can result in clogged pores, acne and blackheads. It may even potentially irritate skin, causing redness, swelling, and increased sensitivity, as well as disrupting the skin's natural renewal process, leading to issuessuch as dullness and compromised skin barrier.
In other words, if you do not have the habit of removing sunscreen and also experience issues like acne, blackheads, skin sensitivity, this is likely to be one of the reasons.
Some outdated beliefs suggest that acne-prone or sensitive skin should not use cleansing oils or cleansing balms. In the past, these products mostly contained poor quality mineral oils with large molecules, and due to insufficient emulsification technology, they were indeed prone to clogging pores and not suitable for acne-prone, and sensitive skin, etc.
However, with advancements in skincare ingredients and technology, most cleansing oils or cleansing balms nowadays no longer contain mineral oils but rather plant oils (except for some cheaper products). Coupled with significantly improved emulsification technology, they actually have a beneficial effect on acne, blackheads, whiteheads, enlarged pores, and even sensitive skin.
Why is that?
As mentioned above, typical water-based cleansing products cannot remove oil-soluble environmental pollutants, excess sebum, dirt, etc. These impurities, along with dead skin cells, if not thoroughly cleaned, can harden, layer up like an onion, and clog pores, leading to increased blackheads and whiteheads, as well as enlarged pores. Additionally, since bacteria thrive in moist, anaerobic environments, when pores are clogged, acne will appear, and inflammation and sensitivity can exacerbate.
Due to the nature of cleansing oils and cleansing balms being able to penetrate deep into pores to dissolve clogged oil-soluble impurities, sebum, and pollutants, they can actually help improve issues like blackheads, whiteheads, acne, and inflammation caused by blocked pores. Moreover, high-quality oil-based cleansing products can provide a buffering and nourishing effect during cleansing without damaging the skin barrier, making them very suitable for sensitive, and inflamed skin.
｜Tips for Banishing Blackheads with Cleansing Oil
You may have heard of the popular blackhead removing liquid from Korea. Well, it actually works on the same principle as cleansing oils/balms, so there's no need to purchase an additional product. Simply try the following method:
- Start by thoroughly removing makeup;
- Take a comfortable shower and let the steam soften the stubborn dirt clogged in your pores;
- Pat dry and then cleanse your face;
- Gently pat dry and apply a layer of cleansing oil. Make sure it is evenly applied and then wait for 5 minutes to let it dissolve the stubborn sebum and dirt softened by the steam;
- Rinse off with lukewarm water;
- Apply a clay mask containing kaolin (kaolin, suitable for all skin types including sensitive skin, can absorb dissolved sebum and dirt; on the contrary, attempting to squeeze or extract blackheads with tools can likely damage the skin barrier, enlarge pores, and even cause redness, sensitivity, and inflammation);
- Rinse with warm water, then follow up with your usual toner, serums, etc.
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Most people tend to remove makeup (or sunscreen), wash their face, and then shower and wash their hair. However, this routine is not actually the best!
The optimal method is to first remove makeup and sunscreen, then shower and wash your hair. After patting dry, take advantage of the steam from the shower that has softened the hardered impurities that are clogging your pores, and perform the second round of cleansing with your usual cleansing product. Then gently pat dry with a clean towel (avoid using the same bath and hair towel), and use a toner within 60 seconds to prevent moisture loss.
But why is this method the best?
Although the steam from the shower does not open the pores, it can help soften some stubborn dirt clogged in the pores, making it easier to remove them. In other words, if you double cleanse first and then shower, these softened stubborn impurities will continue to stay in the pores, harden again, and lead to the formation of whiteheads, blackheads, and acne.
On the other hand, hot water during showering can stimulate the secretion of oil and sweat. This means that even if you have washed your face, it may not be as clean as you think after showering!
Additionally, many hair care products contain silicones and various ingredients that make the hair smooth and soft. This is not a big issue in itself. The problem arises when we wash our hair, and the mixture of shampoo, conditioner, hair mask, and even dirty water flows or splashes onto our face. Most people would just grab a nearby towel to pat dry and then continue rinsing. These residual ingredients can then remain on the skin, leading to sensitivity and redness, or exacerbating existing acne or other skin issues.
Therefore, by completing the first round of cleansing, then showering and washing your hair before finally doing the second round of cleansing, you can ensure that no impurities or oil residues from showering and hair washing are left on your face, allowing subsequent skincare products to penetrate and work the best.
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Many people believe that thorough makeup removal and cleansing require vigorous massaging from multiple angles, constantly pushing up, down, left, and right. However, this approach far exceeds what the skin can handle. In fact, research shows that the probability of various dermatitis, acne, and dryness issues arising from improper cleansing techniques is much higher than the probability of these issues arising from minor makeup residue. Furthermore, continuous vigorous rubbing over time can lead to the development of wrinkles and fine lines.
On the other hand, if you don't massage the cleanser in enough, or leave it on the skin for too short a time, the ingredients may not have the chance to fully perform their cleansing action. Whilst, rinsing too short may not be enough to completely rinse away residues of the cleanser, oil, and dirt. Over time, the skin can become sensitive, inflamed, and prone to acne due to clogged pores.
｜Proper Way of Cleansing
- Start by taking a sufficient amount of cleansing product——if too little product is used, it may not be enough to evenly distribute across the face and can pull on the skin during massaging.
- Dot the cleansing product on dry skin, first on the two sides of the cheeks, then forehead, nose, and chin, to ensure all areas get an adequate amount of the product.
- Using gentle, fingertip strokes without applying pressure, slide the product across the face for about 60 seconds to avoid tugging the skin. Then, gently press the cleanser in around problematic areas like the T-zone, and where blackheads and whiteheads are prominent, to allow the cleansing ingredients to penetrate as deep as possible.
- If the product contains enzymes, acids, or reparative ingredients, wait for 2-5 minutes to give enough time for the ingredients work effectively.
- Finally, rinse for at least 60 seconds, paying special attention to the hairline, corners of the eyes, sides of the nose, and chin.
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Stop believing in inaccurate myths that are biologically impossible——pores are not muscles and do not, and cannot, open or close!!!!
In other words, cold water does not shrink pores, and hot water does not open pores. On the contrary, cold water may not effectively wash away dirt and impurities, while hot water can dry out the skin and damage the skin barrier. Additionally, alternating between cold and hot water can in fact irritate the skin, leading to sensitivity issues.
So, what is the best water temperature for cleansing?
Water at 36°C - 38°C is most effective for allowing dirt and sebum to be removed from the pores and skin surface without irritating the skin.
The bathroom, with its high humidity, is an ideal breeding ground for bacteria. Therefore, using the same towel to wipe your face for multiple days is essentially transferring bacteria onto your skin. What about using the same towel twice a day? When you pat dry your face in the morning after cleansing, you may leave bacteria from your skin on the towel, which can multiply rapidly within the next 12 hours. So, when you use the same towel in the evening, you're essentially transferring bacteria back onto your face. In fact, even a clean towel left in the bathroom for a day can become covered in bacteria.
Furthermore, the act of drying your face with a towel after cleansing involves friction——this not only damages the skin barrier but can also lead to inflammation and pigmentation issues. Continuous tugging can also contribute to the formation of fine lines and wrinkles.
Therefore, after cleansing, it's best to gently pat away excess moisture with a different soft, clean towel each morning and evening, rather than vigorously rubbing the skin dry. If washing towels frequently is not feasible, using soft disposable facial tissues can be an option to ensure each time you touch your face with them, it's clean and sterile.
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A lot of people like to use cleansing machines or brushes, believing they can clean the skin more effectively than using their hands and help improve acne and blackhead issues. Well, initially, they may indeed make the skin feel smoother and brighter because of their physical exfoliation actions, which can improve acne and blackheads by removing excess dead skin cells. However, prolonged use can lead to a series of problems:
- Continuous friction on the skin from the cleansing machines and/or brushes can damage the skin barrier and disrupt the skin's pH balance. This would cause not only dryness and increased sensitivity but can also result in redness, swelling, and peeling, while creating an environment where bad bacteria thrive.
- When bad bacteria thrive, the skin can become chronically inflamed, which can exacerbate existing acne and cause new breakouts.
- Regardless of the brush head material, they can irritate existing inflamed or acne-prone areas and spread bacteria to other areas of the skin. li type="disc">Unless the brush heads are thoroughly cleaned after each use and stored in a cool place until completely dry, bacteria can easily breed, which can lead to more acne and inflammation issues.
The truth is, when it comes to cleansing, our hands are already very effective and sufficient.
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