Ingredients To Avoid For Acne Skin

When customers ask us how to tackle acne, the first thing we tell them is to clean up their diet (as in avoid dairy, processed sugar, alcohol, soy, and gluten, because trust us, it works), then add retinol, AHAs, BHA, PHAs, enzymes, as well as a clay mask into their routine.

Secondly, we also ask them what they are currently using on their faces. This is because the most common ingredients can actually be the culprits sometimes, thus simply removing them from your routine may already help improve your acne condition.

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Acne-Causing Ingredient ① L’Ascorbic Acid

Our skin has a natural pH of around 5.5, whilst l’ascorbic acid, a potent form of vitamin C, has to be at a pH level of 3 for it to stay stable, otherwise it will oxidize very rapidly, rendering the product useless. By using such an acidic product everyday morning and night, the skin’s pH level will be affected, the lipid barrier will be damaged, and the skin’s delicate microbiome of bacteria that maintains a proper balance necessary for a disease-free environment will be disrupted. When this happens, the skin gets sick in the form of acne and dermatitis, amongst many others.

We had quite a few customers with acne issues who were using l’ascorbic acid serums, and as soon as they stopped using it upon our recommendation, their acne cleared up.

But then what should we use as a substitute? Look for vitamin C derivatives like Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate or Ascorbyl Glucocide. The former is a stable, water-soluble form of vitamin C that functions as an antioxidant, skin brightener, collagen stimulator, and antimicrobial——in fact, research has shown that it can reduce acne with continued use! Whilst, the latter, also a water-soluble derivative of vitamin C, is much more stable and gentle than l’ascorbic acid, and thus can be used on all skin types for its antioxidant and skin-brightening properties.

AGENT NATEUR
holi(c) The C Duo  <- Click to shop

A highly concentrated product consisting of only two ingredients. Besides Calcium Ketogluconate that has been shown to have incredible clinical results, that formula's other ingredient, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, protects cells against free radicals, as well as clinically proven to reduce acne. It also acts on melanin formation process in the skin and prevents hyperpigmentation process.

KLUR
Stellar Restoration Corrective Complex  <- Click to shop

Featuring star ingredient 1.8% Encapsulated Retinol, as well as Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Ascorbyl Glucocide, Salicylic Acid, Niacinamide (Vitamin B3), Licorice Root, Gotu Kola, Willow Bark, Aloe Vera Leaf Juice, Sodium Hyaluronate and Squalane, the powerful yet gentle watery serum stimulates collagen synthesis and rejuvenates skin to effectively reduce wrinkles, acne and hyperpigmentation, smooth skin texture, slow aging, and minimize pores in a soothing, hydrating way.
 

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Acne-Causing Ingredient ② Heavy Moisturisers (Occlusive Ingredients)

Occlusive ingredients physically block trans-epidermal water loss by forming a hydrophobic film on the skin surface and within the superficial interstitium between corneocytes. These include ingredients such as petrolatum, lanolin, mineral oil, coconut oil, beeswax, and shea butter. Problem is, they can stick dead skin cells to the skin’s surface, trap oils and dirt inside, clog pores, create an oxygen-free environment that acne bacteria love, kill off ‘friendly’ bacteria that keep skin healthy, resulting in acne.

In fact, a lot of dermatologist and doctors agree that heavy moisturizers, which artificially saturate the skin surface with moisture, disrupts the skin’s natural hydration function and causes it to over-rely on them for moisture and become ‘lazy’. The truth is, in most cases, the skin is capable of maintaining its own hydration levels. By over-moisturizing our skin surface sends a signal to its water reservoirs to halt production of our skin’s natural hydrators glycosaminoglycans and natural moisturizing factors. This would lead to the thinning of our epidermis, and a decreased ability in moisture retention, and in the end, creating a downward spiral of always needing heavier moisturizers.

So instead of using heavy moisturizers with occlusive ingredients, let your skin do its work by using hydrators, lighter moisturizers or oils. Yes, switching back to lighter formulas may feel insufficient at first, but once the skin’s natural function of producing its own glycosaminoglycans and natural moisturizing factors gets back on track, the skin will feel less dry or tight, and better yet, with fewer acne.

MARIE REYNOLDS LONDON
Reson8™  <- Click to shop

A lightweight moisturizer in a hydrogel texture suitable for all skin types, Reson8™ comprises ingredients including Green Tea Extract, Aloe Vera, Avocado Oil, Jojoba Oil, Rosehip Oil, Marine Collagen, Gotu Kola Extract, Neroli Oil, Frankincense Oil and Rose Geranium Oil to calm, repair and stabilize the skin’s barrier while providing penetrating hydration, healing, rejuvenating and regenerating effects to the skin.

 ANFISA
LILOU Radiant Hydra Balm  <- Click to shop

Highly anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and soothing, the organic formula rich in organic Blue Tansy, Helichrysum, Hemp Seed oil, Carrot Seed Oil, Green Tea, White Tea and Matcha, etc., helps to relieve sensitivity, redness, dryness and swelling, promote skin regeneration, strengthen the skin lipid barrier, restore water-oil balance, soothe acne, while inhibiting elastin breakdown and slowing down the aging process. It is amazing for acne-prone skin too!

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Acne-Causing Ingredient ③ Face Scrubs

Facial scrubs contain particles such as microbeads, crushed walnut shells or other similar substances to physically remove the top layer of the skin to make it feel smoother. Here is the truth, face scrubs will not improve acne; in fact, it can make the problem worse.

First of all, the friction in the process may irritate your already-inflamed skin. Secondly, it may also damage the skin barrier by removing healthy skin cells and causing micro-tears, and a damaged skin barrier simply cannot properly retain moisture, nor can it keep bacteria and allergens out, leading to more acne. Thirdly, such friction can also contribute to acne scars, as well as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, which can take weeks, if not months, to improve. And last but not least, face scrubs cannot penetrate pores and unclog them, which means they won’t actually do anything for acne or blackheads/whiteheads!

On the other hand, enzymes, AHAs, BHA and PHAs, speed up cell turnover and help loosen dead skin cells, so they naturally slough off. As long as the formulation and concentration are right, not only are they much more effective and are suitable for acne-prone and sensitive skin, over time they will also increase collagen and hyaluronic acid deposition and synthesis within the dermis, so the skin will appear more plumped, smooth and bouncy!

You may also want to use a clay mask twice a week, that can gently remove dirt, oil & pollutants accumulated in the pores, reduce blackheads & acne, whilst delivering hydration and nutrients to calm skin.

KLUR
Supreme Seed Delicate Purification Mask <- Click to shop

Formulated with Kaolin, Papaya Extract, Wild Cherry Bark, Aloe Vera Leaf Juice and Green Tea Leaf Water, it gently purifies and decongests to improve clogged pores, blackheads, whiteheads, and acne. Together with soothing and balancing Panthenol, Gotu Kola, Kelp, Ginkgo, Calendula, and Cacao amongst other botanicals, as well as nourishing oils, it also helps calm, soothe, and improve the appearance of redness and irritation.

OUMERE
No. 9 Exfoliant  <- Click to shop

Contains natural effective yet gentle AHAs, BHAs and PHAs, together with Mulberry, which has the highest concentration of resveratrol in nature, as well as Goldenseal, Licorice Root, and Aloe Leaf Juice, etc., it removes dead skin cells, speeds up cell turnover, brightens skin, reduces hyperpigmentation, unclogs pores and prevents acne, while providing anti-inflammatory and antibacterial actions.

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Acne-Causing Ingredient ④ Sulphates

Sulphates, such as sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) and sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), are cleaning ingredients that produce foam, and can be found in conventional cleansers, shower gels, shampoos, and even toothpaste. They cleanse the skin for sure, but they also strip the skin of its natural oil, and can damage the skin’s lipid barrier, thus weakening its defence ability as well as allowing harmful bacteria and pollutants to enter the body through the skin, which can then lead to irritations, inflammations and redness.

Worse yet, it is also believed to be a contributor to acne, eczema and dermatitis, because not only is it comedogenic, it also has high alkalinity, which allows bacteria such as p.acnes to thrive.

In fact, it is also believed that for those with cystic acne around the mouth and chin, using toothpaste with SLS or SLES might be one of the contributing factors.

Remember, whether or not you have acne, cleansing should always be gentle, and therefore a non-foaming, gentle cleanser is always recommended.

AGENT NATEUR
acid(wash) Lactic Acid Brightening Cleanser  <- Click to shop

Infused with premium organic ingredients, such as Peony Root Extract, Lavender Flower Water and Oil, Aloe Vera, as well as Lactic Acid, this gentle cleanser removes daily grime, soothes inflammation, and gently exfoliates to brighten dull skin, refine texture and pores, reduce hyperpigmentation, and reduce blackheads and acne yet without any irritation, leaving skin silky, supple, and youthful.

TWELVE BEAUTY
Purifying Cleansing Beauty Cream  <- Click to shop

This mild yet effective creamy milk formula contains a high dose of squalane, as well as prized organic botanicals, including Mallow, Butterfly Bush, White Genepì and Masterwort, to renew and repair the skin, fight free radicals, soothe inflammations and remove impurities simultaneously, leaving the skin revitalized, super soft and hydrated.

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Acne-Causing Ingredient ⑤ Very Low Molecular Weight Hyaluronic Acid

Thanks to its properties in holding up to 1,000 times its weight in water, hyaluronic acid, a humectant, can pull water from the environment to the surface of the skin. It also strengthens and fortifies the hydrolipic barrier to keep water locked in.

Natural hyaluronic acid has rather large molecules that mainly sit on top of the skin, which is why you often feel some sort of tackiness with a hyaluronic acid serum, or even experience piling when used with other products. So a lot of brands breakdown the molecular to make it more penetrable. However, when they are broken down into very low molecular weight ( ≤ 25 kDA), it can potentially carry bacteria and other unwanted ingredients more deeply into the skin. If you have compromised skin, this might be bad news, as that could mean blemishes, redness, irritations, and inflammations.

So while hyaluronic acid is a great ingredients, avoid products that promote itself as having nano or ultra low molecular weight sized hyaluronic acid, as they are inflammatory and do more harm than good.

KLUR
Immersion Serum Concentrate  <- Click to shop

Besides having a wide range of ultra hydrating ingredients, including Green Tea Water, Aloe Vera Leaf Juice, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate & Sodium Hyaluronate, the serum is also packed with 3 forms of Peptides to stimulate collagen synthesis and micro-circulation, improve skin barrier and hydration, reduce wrinkles and inflammation, regenerate collagen fibers, and rejuvenate skin. Whilst, Niacinamide, Reishi, Gotu Kola, White Tea and Chamomile etc. are added to brighten, fight free radicals, hydrate and soothe.

TWELVE BEAUTY
Ideal Moisture Level Serum  <- Click to shop

Formulated with various hydrating ingredients, such as Saccharide Isomerate, Panthenol and long-chain Sodium Hyaluronate, as well as prized organic botanicals like White Genepì and Mallow, it helps to provide long-lasting hydration while forming a protective layer on the skin surface to lock in moisture. It also improves the skin's barrier function, soothes irritations, fights free radicals, reduces inflammations, protects against UV rays, and repairs the skin.

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Acne-Causing Ingredient ⑥ Isopropyl Ingredients

Isopropyl linoleate, isopropyl isosterate, isopropyl lanolate, isopropyl myristate, and isopropyl palmitate, are texture enhancers, penetration enhancers and emollient ingredients that are often found in serums, moisturizers, and even eye creams. They are however highly comedogenic, so while they are believed to not affect already inflamed acne, they can lead to clogged pores and thus acne.

In short, avoid them if your skin is prone to acne and clogged pores, or if you are prone to having milia.

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