Collagen is the most important structural protein in our skin and is responsible for giving us that youthful wrinkle-free, plump, firm skin. However, our collagen production starts to decline at about age 25, and worse, other factors like sun exposure, caffeine, pollution and stress, can accelerate the break down of collagen.
Many products, including toners, serums, and moisturizers, thus incorporate collagen in their formulas, promising the hope of turning back the clock by replenishing the skin with collagen. But do they actually work topically?
What is Collagen
Collagen is the main structural protein in human connective tissues, most notably found and produced in the dermis, the second layer of skin that sits beneath the epidermis. It consists of amino acids and is a fibrous protein. Besides human, it can also be found in most animals, such as cows and fish.
A point to note is that there is no such thing as vegan collagen, as plants simply do not produce collagen.
Does Collagen In Skincare Provide Any Benefits?
Collagen is a complex and massive molecule, thus applied topically, it will not penetrate the epidermis of the skin, let alone get down into the dermis——they just sit on top of the epidermis. This essentially means, not only will these topical collagen products not be able to replace the lost collagen to improve fine lines and wrinkles, there is simply no current research showing that topical collagen can stimulate collagen synthesis or growth. Period.
With that being said, collagen has moisturizing benefits when applied topically, so when a toner, serum or moisturizer containing collagen is used, your skin may feel softer and smoother, and wrinkles may look less prominent, but this does not mean the underlying issue collagen loss is solved.
What About Hydrolyzed Collagen?
Recent cosmetic technology has allowed collagen to be broken down as hydrolyzed collagen, otherwise known as smaller chains of amino acids. Theoretically, these smaller blocks of collagen precursors can penetrate through the epidermis, and provided that they could actually make their way into the dermis, they may be able to provide the building blocks for fibroblasts to make collagen. However, this theory has not been really clinically tested, nor experimentally proven.
So How Do We Add Collagen To Our Skin?
If your ultimate skincare goal is to stimulate collagen production, smooth wrinkles and fine lines, and plump and firm skin, you might as well save your money on skincare with collagen, as they won’t do anything besides providing moisture. Instead, add the below ingredients to your routine, as they are scientifically proven to boost collagen synthesis, and prevent existing collagen from breaking down further.
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Preventive Ingredients
UV rays and oxidative stress can accelerate the breakdown of collagen and elastin, leading to wrinkles and sagging. Ingredients like Mulberry, Cordyceps, Polygonum Aviculare, Broccoli Sprout, Bilberry, and Cilantro, can prevent such daily UV-induced damage, fight free radicals, promote cell regeneration, prevent degradation of collagen and elastin, and reverse photoaging at the cellular level.
Product Recommendation
OUMERE
UV-R™ <- Click to shop
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Retinol
We have said it many times, and we will say it over and over again.
Retinol is one of the few potent anti-aging ingredients that is widely recognized by both the dermatological and scientific communities. This star ingredient not only activates collagen and epidermal growth factor receptors, promotes cellular turnover, and stimulates self collagen and elastin production, thereby reducing wrinkles, it is also highly effective in treating acne, dullness, scarring, hyperpigmentation and rough skin texture.
Product Recommendation
KLUR
Stellar Restoration Corrective Complex <- Click to shop
Product Recommendation
KLUR
Sculpture + A Overnight Enrichment Cream <- Click to shop
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Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Vitamin C)
Most forms of vitamin C, L’Ascorbic Acid in particular, are notorious for being highly unstable, easily degraded, and can often lead to acne and irritations. On the other hand, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, a stable vitamin C derivative, is excellent in promoting collagen formation, protecting cells against damage caused by free radicals, improving the photoprotective properties of sunscreens, and inhibiting melanin production to prevent hyperpigmentation and brighten skin without irritating the skin. It has also been clinically proven to treat acne!
Product Recommendation
AGENT NATEUR
holi(oil) Ageless Face Serum <- Click to shop
Product Recommendation
KLUR
Brilliant Light Multi-Correction Repair Serum <- Click to shop
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Peptides
Peptides are essentially proteins that are the building blocks of the skin. Used topically, they stimulate the growth of new cells and collagen synthesis, regenerate collagen fibers, reduce wrinkles, improve skin barrier function, and slow the glycation process, so the skin stays firm and supple.
Product Recommendation
EATH LIBRARY
The Pure Wonder Active Serum <- Click to shop
Product Recommendation
KLUR
Immersion Serum Concentrate <- Click to shop
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Calcium Ketogluconate
Clinically studies have proven this French-patented, expensive ingredient can increase elastin synthesis by 40-45%, increases self hyaluronic acid synthesis by 36-92%, lift skin by 27%, and improve skin elasticity by 16% with 28 days of continued use day and night. Which means, in short, less wrinkles and plumper skin!
Product Recommendation
AGENT NATEUR
holi(c) The C Duo <- Click to shop
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Other Collagen Boosting Ingredients
There are actually a few botanical ingredients that are proven to boost collagen synthesis within the skin. For instance, studies have found beta-glucan increases collagen synthesis by up to 32%, Ginseng induces Type I collagen synthesis, Ursolic acid increases collagen and helps preserve the structure of collagen fibers. whilst Sea Kelp, which carries Vitamins A, B1, B2, C, D, and E, 46 minerals, 11 micronutrients, and 16 amino acids, gives the skin ammunition to produce more collagen.
Product Recommendation
OUMERE
Serum Bioluminelle™ <- Click to shop
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