Basic and Advanced Principles of Skin Hydration and Moisture - Part 1

During winter and early spring, the skin is most susceptible to dehydration, dryness and sensitivity. Some even feel that their skin remains dry like a desert no matter how many products they use to hydrate and moisturize it. The reality is, rather than ineffective products, the problem often lies with incorrect skincare practices.

In fact, achieving well-hydrated and moisturized skin that can withstand any dry and cold weather is not difficult as long as you understand the principles of hydration and moisture, and learn how to properly take care of your skin.

We will break the topic down into two separate articles, and explore hydration and moisture from multiple angles. Let's get started!

The Basics

| Is dry, dehydrated skin genetically related?

Many people are not aware that dry, dehydrated skin can be caused by "dehydration" and "imbalanced water-oil ratio”, which is a temporary skin condition, or natural "dry skin" conditions.

Dehydrated skin, simply put, is skin that does not have enough water, a temporary skin condition. This is generally caused by various factors such as cold air, heat, UV rays, strong winds, friction, diet, alcohol, caffeine, incorrect use of skincare products and methods, and skin inflammation, which all damage the skin barrier. This skin’s natural water retention function thus decreases as a result, ultimately leading to skin dehydration.

On the other hand, dry skin, is a genetical skin type, characterized by invisible pores, no acne, visible fine lines and wrinkles, frequent flaking and cracking of the skin, itchiness, and dry body skin. Since dry skin lacks sufficient sebum, unless oils are incorporated into your skincare routine, you may find the skin still dry even after using a lot of hydrating toners and serums.

According to research by renowned cosmetic dermatologist Rachael Eckel, only 15% of the population has genetically dry skin, an actual skin type, and most people who perceive their skin as "dry" actually experience dehydration, a temporary skin condition, caused by a compromised skin barrier.

| What’s the difference between hydrating and moisturizing the skin?

Hydrating refers to replenishing the skin with water, while moisturizing the skin, in the simplest term, means helping the skin retain water. Products such as hydrating toners, serums, and masks are effective in adding hydration, i.e. replenishing the skin with water, whereas products like facial oils, moisturizers, and sleeping masks are good for moisture, i.e. locking in water for the skin.

To achieve healthy and hydrated skin, both hydration and moisture are essential. Simply using toners, serums or masks to add water without sealing it in will result in continuous evaporation and water loss. Likewise, relying solely on moisturizers without first replenishing the skin with water will not help improve dehydration.

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| What the difference between skin that lacks water and oil?

Skin that lacks water may feel tight and dull, with enlarged pores, acne blackheads, and localized oiliness. This temporary dehydration condition can affect all skin types including oily, combination, dry and sensitive skin.

When the skin lacks oil, fine lines and wrinkles become more apparent, skin texture appears rough with flaking, tightness and itchiness, loss of elasticity and radiance become apparent, and the skin barrier becomes fragile. Not only does this affect the skin’s water retention function, it also decreases the skin’s ability in fighting off allergens and bacteria, leading to issues such as sensitivity, redness, inflammation, acne, eczema, and rosacea.

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| How much temperature difference can cause the skin to become dry?

When the temperature difference between morning and night or indoor and outdoor exceeds 8℃, the Caspase 14 enzyme in the skin, a moisturizing factor crucial for the skin's moisturizing function, significantly decreases, which can then result in dehydration and dryness of the skin.

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| What’s the best humidity for hydrated, healthy skin?

To prevent dehydration, dryness, it is recommended to maintain indoor humidity within the range of 60-65%. When the humidity falls below 60%, try to use a humidifier. Hanging damp towels in the room can also help regulate humidity.

| When is the skin most dehydrated and dry throughout the day?

In the evening! This is because firstly, many people spend their daytime in offices with either air conditioning or heating, and secondly, indoor and outdoor environments can have a significant temperature difference, both of which can accelerate trans-epidermal water loss. Therefore even if the skin is properly hydrated and moisturised in the morning, the skin can still feel tight and dry by the evening. Additionally, the skin barrier becomes weakened due to constant environmental stimulation during the day, further accelerating water loss and reducing its ability in protecting against allergens and bacteria.

Therefore, in the evening, it is important to not only hydrate but also replenish the skin with oils to repair and strengthen the skin barrier. This helps reinforce the skin's self-moisturizing function and reduces water loss.

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| Do UV rays dry the skin?

Even small amounts of UV rays can weaken the skin barrier and defense mechanisms, leading to increased water evaporation and inflammation, which in turn exacerbates dryness issues.

Furthermore, frequent unprotected UV rays exposure causes the skin to naturally accumulate excess dead skin cells on the surface as a physical defense mechanism. This leads to a condition called "stratum corneum thickening," where the skin's outer layer becomes thickened, making it difficult for skincare products to penetrate. When that happens, no matter how much hydrating toners and serums are used, dehydration and dryness will be challenging to improve.

Therefore, even during the winter season, it is essential to prioritize daily sun protection!

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| Do the menstrual cycle and female hormonal fluctuations affect the skin's moisture levels?

There can be significant changes! While the skin tends to become more moisturized after the menstrual period, from ovulation to the week before the menstrual cycle, it can become unstable and prone to acne and dryness issues.

| Does poor blood circulation contribute to skin dryness?

Absolutely! Poor blood circulation is a major enemy of hydrated skin! Blood plays a crucial role in delivering nutrients to the skin. When blood circulation is poor, nutrients cannot effectively reach the skin cells, and the turnover of keratinocytes slows down, resulting in dryness.

To improve blood circulation and thus promote healthier, well-moisturized skin, in addition to exercise, it is beneficial to take regular baths or foot soaks. It is also important to maintain body temperature and avoid exposing the body to cold conditions.

| Are sleep and skin hydration related?

Recent research has shown that irregular sleep patterns and disruptions to the circadian rhythm can lead to a decrease in the skin's barrier function and a significant reduction in skin moisture. Additionally, growth hormones that contribute to skin repair are released approximately three to four hours into human sleep. If sleep is insufficient or frequently interrupted, skin cells and the barrier may not be able to repair themselves due to a lack of these growth hormones, which of course, can affect skin hydration and moisture.

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| In which month is the skin most dehydrated and dry?

While you might think it's January or February, in reality, it's March during season transition! During the months of January and February when the temperature and humidity are at their lowest, the skin tends to become dry and sensitive. The skin barrier is also most susceptible to damages and irritation during this time. As all these damages accumulate, the skin becomes the driest and most fragile in March, while redness and sensitivity issues become more severe.

Therefore, during January and February, it is ultra crucial to focus on hydrating and moisturising the skin, as well as maintaining a healthy skin barrier.

Skin Dryness and Sensitive, Eczema and Rosacea Skin

| Why is dryness difficult to improve for sensitive, eczema and rosacea skin? Is there any way to help?

Dehydrated and dry skin often experience temporary disruptions in normal keratinocyte turnover, leading to the continuous generation of immature skin cells. When the stratum corneum is immature, the skin's self-moisturizing function, which prevents water from evaporating, and its barrier function, which blocks external irritants and bacteria, are compromised. This further exacerbates dryness issues, creating a vicious cycle. For individuals with sensitive skin, eczema, or rosacea, whose barrier function is already fragile, the tendency for dryness becomes even more pronounced.

Therefore, for sensitive, eczema and rosacea skin, in order to improve hydration, it is crucial to first focus on repairing the skin barrier. Lipids in facial oils are key components of the barrier, so using lipid-rich facial oils can be more effective in improving dryness issues for individuals with sensitive skin, eczema, and rosacea compared to hydration-focused serums.

Additionally, gentle and regular exfoliation is also essential. It is recommended to choose products containing lactic acid, which can gently exfoliate while providing hydration. This not only helps normalize keratinocyte turnover but also increases skin moisture, alleviating dehydration issues.

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| Why is oil comparatively more important than water for sensitive, eczema and rosacea skin?

Firstly, as mentioned above, the barrier of sensitive skin, eczema, and rosacea is fragile and unable to prevent water loss.

Think of it like a dam with gaps. No matter how much water you pour into the reservoir, it will still drain away! When the skin lacks oils, the barrier becomes weak and develops gaps, thus no matter how much hydrating serums or masks you use, the skin still cannot retain water or prevent unnecessary irritants, pollutants, and bacteria from invading. This leads to dryness, itchiness, sensitivity, and even acne, rosacea, and eczema flare ups.

Furthermore, there is also this problem called "moisture-associated skin damage" (MASD). For individuals with sensitive skin, eczema, and rosacea, whose barrier is already fragile, constantly adding moisture can actually destabilize the layered structure that controls barrier function and make the stratum corneum fragile. This results in the degradation of the corneodesmosomes and barrier function, further exacerbating dehydration, dryness, tightness, itching, and even worsening sensitivity and inflammation.

Therefore, while hydration is undoubtedly crucial and essential, to combat inflammation and maintain healthy, well-hydrated and moisturized skin, it is necessary to first replenish the skin with oils to repair and strengthen the skin barrier.

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| Does skin inflammations cause dryness?

Yes! Inflammation can cause the skin to become dry, as well as make dry lines, fine lines, and loss of elasticity more noticeable, as it can disrupt the skin’s barrier function. However, it's important to know that inflammation can occur not only when the skin is sensitive or during eczema or rosacea flare-ups. Factors such as UV rays, free radicals, friction (including exfoliation, the use of facial cleansing devices, rubbing with towel, etc.), excessive cleansing, stress, hormonal fluctuations (such as pregnancy or taking birth control pills), acne breakouts, blackheads, and more can all trigger skin inflammation.

In other words, anti-inflammatory care is also an essential aspect of keeping the skin nourished.

| Does using products with probiotic live cultures improve dryness for sensitive, eczema and rosacea skin?

When the varieties and quantities of "good bacteria" and "bad bacteria" on the skin are in balance, they form the first line of defense against irritating, toxic substances, and harmful organisms in the environment. This balance also helps maintain skin moisture and strengthen the skin barrier. However, when this balance is disrupted, which can be due to genetics, pollution, stress, diet, or the use of foaming cleansers, facial cleansing devices, alcohol-containing toners, acne care products containing benzoyl peroxide, and even household cleaning agents, the skin can then experience various issues.

Topical live probiotic cultures (live is key here!) can secrete antibacterial, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory substances and penetrate harmful bacteria and eliminate them before inflammation occurs. They also establish a protective layer on the skin's surface to prevent harmful bacteria from entering skin cells. On the other hand, these active probiotics can also calm skin cells and prevent them from sending excessive "attack" signals to the skin's immune system when faced with harmful bacteria. This reduces inflammation, redness, itching, swelling, dry and rough skin patches, as well as issues like papules and acne.

When skin inflammation decreases, and the skin's microbiome balance is restored, skin dryness naturally improves.

Furthermore, research has found that live probiotic cultures can increase the production of hyaluronic acid and ceramides in the skin. These two substances naturally present in the skin not only strengthen the barrier function to significantly improve dryness, but can also increase skin elasticity, making the skin appear more hydrated and smooth.

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Skin Dryness and Food

Our body organs need to obtain sufficient nutrients from our food to maintain their normal functions, and since the skin is the largest organ of the body, one's diet is unevitably one of the determining factors of whether the skin is dry or not. Unfortunately, the nutrients obtained from a regular diet often fall short of meeting the body's and skin's nutritional needs. Therefore, in addition to maintaining a balanced diet, it is also necessary to add in certain supplements to help achieve hydrated, glowing skin.

| Does drinking more water make the skin less dry?

The human body needs sufficient water to eliminate toxins and waste, as well as to circulate oxygen and nutrients to various parts of the body, including skin cells. Therefore, water does indeed have an indirect impact on the skin. Additionally, when you are severely dehydrated, body cells and organs cannot function properly, and the skin will naturally be affected. With that being said however, the water you drink cannot automatically reach the skin cells to provide them with hydration.

So, while drinking water is important and has an indirect impact on skin hydration, proper moisturization and hydration care are actually the most aspect in maintaining hydrated skin.

| Does taking ceramides improve skin hydration?

Ceramides are a type of lipid that are naturally found in the skin's stratum corneum. They play a crucial role in maintaining the skin's barrier function by filling in the gaps between skin cells, creating a strong and protective barrier that prevents moisture loss loss and blocks out irritants, bacteria and toxins to help maintain healthy, supple skin. Unfortunately, the level of ceramides in the skin naturally decreases as we age, which can then lead to dryness, tightness, wrinkles. Skin with a disrupted skin barrier is also more prone to sensitivity, redness, inflammations, and acne.

Foods rich in ceramides include dairy products such as milk, cheese, and yogurt, as well as eggs, soybeans, wheat germ, corn, sweet potatoes, and brown rice. However, dairy products, eggs, soybeans, and wheat germ, which contains gluten, can easily trigger acne, eczema, and other skin inflammations (read: How Different Foods Negatively Affect The Skin and How Different Foods Negatively Affect The Skin - Part 2), whereas many corn products in the market are genetically modified. Therefore, taking ceramides supplements is a healthier option, whilst ensuring an adequate daily dosage.

For instance, CERAMOSIDES™ is composed of patented active ingredients combining natural phytoceramides from wheat and an efficiency booster, digalactosyl-diglyceride (DGDG), a lipid essential for skin hydration, to help restore the skin's natural ceramide levels from within, improve the skin's moisture retention ability, and strengthen the skin barrier function, thereby restoring the skin’s water retention and protective function, and thus improving eczema, rosacea, sensitivity and dryness.

A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical study, conducted on 40 women aged 30 to 60 years, shows an increase in skin hydration of 16% and a reduction in trans-epidermal water loss of 13% after 15 days of supplementation with just 30 mg of CERAMOSIDES™. Other studies demonstrated an increase in skin hydration of up to 65%.

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| Does collagen supplement hydrate skin?

Collagen supplement does so much more than promoting collagen production! Research has shown that continuous intake of collagen supplement can increase the synthesis of hyaluronic acid in the body and promote the production of other proteins that contribute to skin structure, such as elastin and fibrillin. This results in fuller, more plump skin, improved elasticity, reduced wrinkles, firmer skin, and decreased skin dryness.

One clinical study revealed that after four weeks of collagen supplement intake, the collagen degradation rate in the dermis significantly decreased by 18%, collagen density increased by 9%, and skin moisture content increased by a significant 28%! After continuous intake for 12 weeks, the collagen degradation rate further decreased by 31%, skin elasticity and moisture content significantly improved, and wrinkles became less noticeable!

Whilst, another 12-week double-blind study with 64 participants showed that those who took collagen supplements once a day had significantly higher skin moisture content compared to the placebo group. Visual assessment scores, skin wrinkle measurements, and skin elasticity also significantly improved.

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| If our daily diet lacks oil, does the skin become dry?

Having an excessive amount of oil and fat in your diet does not necessarily mean that your body will be moisturized, and it can have many negative effects on your health. However, if you have too little oils and fat in your diet, your body won't have enough essential fatty acids to produce the sebum necessary for healthy skin and a protective barrier, which can indeed lead to dry skin.

Therefore, even if you want to keep oils and fats in your diet to a minimum, it is beneficial to add a little olive oil, sesame oil, avocado, or other healthy oils to your daily dishes, or try to consume more fish rich in omega-3 fatty acids such as salmon, mackerel, sardines, herring, trout, and tuna, as well as nuts and seeds like flaxseeds, chia seeds, and walnuts.

| Why is krill oil better in improving dry skin than fish oil?

Of course, fish oil also contains omega-3, but why did studies find that even at a lower dosage, krill oil is still more effective than fish oil in lowering blood sugar, triglycerides, "bad" cholesterol, and improving general health and the skin?

This is because the omega-3 in krill oil is in the form of phospholipids, while fish oil is in the form of triglycerides. Since the cell membranes in our body are composed of phospholipids, the omega-3 in krill oil is more easily absorbed through the intestinal wall and utilized by the body. In other words, the absorption rate and bioavailability of krill oil are higher than that of fish oil. Therefore, even at lower dosages, krill oil has more significant effects compared to high-dose fish oil.

For instance, research has found that supplementing with phospholipid-based omega-3 fatty acids from krill oil can reduce inflammatory and hormonal acne by up to 42%, while nourishing the skin and repairing the skin barrier, thereby improving skin dryness. They have also been shown to inhibit the production of specific molecules associated with inflammation, thus improving conditions like atopic dermatitis, eczema, psoriasis, and rosacea.

Additionally, krill oil contains the super antioxidant Astaxanthin (also known as the "king of carotenoids"), which can penetrate the blood-brain barrier and has antioxidant abilities 6,000 times higher than vitamin C. Other antioxidants and vitamins A and E, which are lacking in dry skin, are also present in krill oil, which are also some of the reasons why krill oil is considered superior to fish oil.

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In our next article, we will further discuss how to enhance the efficiency and effectiveness in hydrating and moisturizing the skin in each step of your skincare routine! Stay tuned!

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