May 16, 2023
Dewy glass skin is skin that is well hydrated, plumped, elastic, and looks radiant and healthy when exposed to light. While it is easily achieved in your teens and early twenties without much maintenance, as we age, dehydration, dryness, lack of elasticity, decreased cell turnover, fine lines and wrinkles can all affect the skin's appearance. That's right, it is not only about having enough water!.
Find out how to achieve that dewy, healthy glass skin even as you age!
Dewy glass skin and oily skin are totally different things.
When the skin is well hydrated, moisturized and plumped with optimal cell turnover, the surface texture of the skin will have fewer irregularities and thus can reflect light evenly, giving it a dewy, transparent, glass-like appearance. There's also the merit of less skin troubles!
On the other hand, the shininess of oily skin comes from excess sebum, which not only looks greasy and melts off makeup, but can also emphasize and clog pores, subsequently leading to acne.
After the age of 25, our skin barrier function weakens, and thus is prone to dryness regardless of skin type. In order to repair and maintain the skin barrier, hydration and moisture are both essential even for oily skin.
Now, some people tend to forgo moisturizers or face oils in the mornings just in case their makeup melt off. Contrary to popular belief though, when the skin is well hydrated and moisturized, makeup actually melts off less! This is because the sun, UV rays, air-con, fan and wind can all damage the skin barrier and dry the skin out, and when that happens, the skin will secrete more sebum in an attempt to repair the barrier, which then only leads to oily skin instead of dewy, glass skin!
Collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid in the dermis are what keep the skin elastic and firm. However, after the age of 25, the rate of their synthesis reduces gradually. In fact, at the age of 45, your collagen levels may have fallen by as much as 30%, and around the 60-year mark, we stop producing collagen totally! When collagen gradually decreases, firmness and elasticity are lost, and light reflects unevenly on the skin surface.
On the other hand, it takes around 14-21 days on average for our cells to renew themselves in our 20s; this process gradually lengthens to 28-45 days in our 30s, 45-60 days in our 40s, and 90 days in our 50s-60s. With a buildup of dead skin cells, not only will pores become clogged and enlarged, acne will also appear, hyperpigmentation will take longer to fade, and skincare products, won’t be able to penetrate properly and work effectively. Moreover, as light can't reflect evenly on the skin surface, the skin will look dull, textured, and lacklustre.
Oils are often disliked because of its greasy, sticky, acne-causing image (which is actually a misconception). The truth is, oils are an essential element in healthy, ageless, dewy skin especially as we age.
The outermost layer of the skin, aka stratum corneum, is made up of ceramide, cholesterol and saturated fatty acids. Together they create a water-impermeable, protective layer to prevent excessive water loss due to evaporation as well as a barrier against the entry of bacteria. However, the levels of these lipids decline with age; as a result, upper layers of the skin become thinner, the skin is more prone to dryness, dullness and conditions such as eczema and psoriasis, whilst fine lines and wrinkles become more prominent.
Worse yet, a lot of things can damage the lipid barrier——changes in temperature and humidity, constant rubbing of face masks against the face, face scrubs, foaming cleansers, face picking, inappropriate use of skincare products, pollutants and irritants, UV exposure, and so on.
All these result in skin that is dry, dull and non-transparent.
No matter your skin type, it is important to give the skin enough water. Straight after cleansing, apply a hydrating toner within 60 seconds. Use your fingertips to distribute the toner equally on your face, then gently press the toner in using your fingertips. You may want to repeat this step 2-3 times if you're particularly dehydrated.
Product Recommendation
AGENT NATEUR
holi(water) Hyaluronic Pearl & Rose Essence <- Click to shop
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EATH LIBRARY
Wise Awakening Advanced Nourishing Toner <- Click to shop
Our skin is complicated with multiple channels, and different cells need different nutrients, which means no single ingredient can do it all! So while panthenol (vitamin B5), for example, is a good hydrating ingredient, it is always good to look for multiple hydrating ingredients in a hydrating serum formula. Hydrating ingredients that are good for all skin types include (but not limited to) Aloe Vera Juice, Glycerin, Beta-Glucan, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium PCA, Polysaccharides, Allantoin, Silk Peptides, and Saccharide Isomerate.
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KLUR
Immersion Serum Concentrate <- Click to shop
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TWELVE BEAUTY
Ideal Moisture Level Serum <- Click to shop
Skin with rough texture or too much dead skin cells build-up reflects light differently. To speed up cell turnover that slows down as we age and improve skin texture (whilst also taking care of clogged and enlarged pores, acne, and blackheads), periodic exfoliation is necessary.
With that being said, exfoliation should be done correctly, and due to the below reasons, we do not recommend using physical scrubs for all skin types.
First of all, the friction in the process may irritate your already-inflamed skin. Secondly, it may also damage the skin barrier by removing healthy skin cells and causing micro-tears, and a damaged skin barrier simply cannot properly retain moisture, nor can it keep bacteria and allergens out, leading to more acne. Thirdly, such friction can also contribute to acne scars, as well as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, which can take weeks, if not months, to improve. And last but not least, face scrubs cannot penetrate pores and unclog them, which means they won’t actually do anything for acne or blackheads/whiteheads!
On the other hand, AHAs and PHAs work by dissolving and breaking the bonds that hold together the dead skin cells on the skin surface. As these bonds are broken, dead skin cells get shedded naturally, and new, regenerated skin is revealed. Now, while all acids and enzymes work on the top layers of skin, BHAs can also work inside the pores to remove excess sebum as they are oil-soluble, making it the best choice for improving pores, acne, whiteheads, and blackheads.
Now, although acids may sound irritating to many, with the right acid combination and concentration in a well-rounded, carefully thought out formulation, they can actually be used by all skin types to target acne, pigmentation, uneven skin tone and rough texture if used properly.
With continued use, they also stimulate collagen and hyaluronic acid deposition and synthesis, meaning thicker dermis, increased elasticity and less wrinkles!
Product Recommendation
OUMERE
No. 9 Exfoliant <- Click to shop
Product Recommendation
Agent Nateur
holi(bright) Resurface Glass Face Mask <- Click to shop
Plumpness and elasticity are the basis of dewy glass skin. However, as mentioned above, collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid synthesis gradually decrease after the age of 25, causing the skin to lose elasticity, firmness and lustre, while wrinkles, pores, and dullness become noticeable. Even makeup won't stick to the skin nicely!
It is therefore important to incorporate skincare products that contain certain specialized ingredients to effectively stimulate the production of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid, so that the skin will stay plumped, smooth and elastic. These ingredients include but not limited to:
Ask any dermatologist and they will agree that retinol is one of the few ingredients that can help prevent and reverse signs of aging, such as collagen and elastin breakdown, wrinkles, texturized skin, hyperpigmentation, dullness.
Being one of the few potent anti-aging ingredients that is widely recognized and studied by both the dermatological and scientific communities, retinol works by literally augmenting the biology of the skin, and activating collagen, elastin and epidermal growth factor receptors, thereby reducing wrinkles and scarring, lightening hyperpigmentation, brightening skin, smoothing skin texture, firming skin, tightening pores, and improving and slowing down other signs of aging. It is also an excellent ingredient to combat acne. In short, retinol literally tells skin cells to make younger functioning cells!
Product Recommendation
KLUR
Sculpture + A Overnight Enrichment Cream <- Click to shop
Product Recommendation
KLUR
Stellar Restoration Corrective Complex <- Click to shop
Clinically studies have proven this French-patented, expensive ingredient can increase elastin synthesis by 40-45%, increases self hyaluronic acid synthesis by 36-92%, lift skin by 27%, and improve skin elasticity by 16% with 28 days of continued use day and night. Which means, in short, less wrinkles and plumper skin!
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AGENT NATEUR
holi(lift) Ageless Lifting and Firming Serum <- Click to shop
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AGENT NATEUR
holi(crème) Filter Face Cream <- Click to shop
Peptides are made up of amino acids that are fragments of proteins needed by the skin, like collagen and elastin. When amino acids are combined in certain formations they create specific peptides, which in turn become specific proteins that make up the skin’s foundation, and are responsible for its texture, strength and resilience.
Using products with peptides topically is like sending little messengers to the skin, which trigger the skin to perform specific functions like building collagen and elastin, fight free radicals, and reduce inflammations, depending on the type of peptide used——researches over the years have shown that different peptides work in very specific ways to target an exact skin care need, and they also teach skin how to help revitalize its building blocks and revive aging skin.
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TWELVE BEAUTY
Plant Perfection Gel Serum <- Click to shop
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MARIE REYNOLDS LONDON
Skin Quencher <- Click to shop
Studies have shown that vitamin C, being a potent antioxidant, can protect the skin against UV-induced free radical damage. It also aids in the skin’s natural regeneration process, repairs damaged skin cells, boosts collagen production, and inhibits melanin production which can lighten and prevent dark spots and hyperpigmentation. Thus it is recommended to use in the morning to enhance protection and at night for rejuvenation.
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate is the gentlest and most stable form of vitamin C that is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin, and is safe to use during pregnancy. It does everything vitamin C can do for the skin, with an additional clinically proven benefit of banishing acne!
Product Recommendation
KLUR
Brilliant Light Multi-Correction Repair Serum <- Click to shop
Product Recommendation
AGENT NATEUR
holi(c) The C Duo <- Click to shop
Not only does Niacinamide repair damage and neutralize free radicals that can cause the breakdown of collagen and elastin, it also increases collagen production in the dermis, normalizes collagen, and inhibits glycation, thus keeping collagen and elastin supple and flexible, which ultimately reduces and prevents the formation of fine lines and wrinkles. In fact, a clinical study has shown that applying 5% Niacinamide topically for 12 weeks resulted in a 21% improvement in fine lines!
However, when using niacinamide, remember to not use anything over 5%, otherwise sensitivity, irritation or even inflammation may occur!
Product Recommendation
EATH LIBRARY
The Pure Wonder Active Serum <- Click to shop
Product Recommendation
TWELVE BEAUTY
Ultra Revitalising Elixir <- Click to shop
Oil is often thought to be the source of skin problems such as acne, but the levels of lipids that make up the outermost layer of the skin decline with age. As a result, the skin become thinner, and is more prone to dryness, dullness and conditions such as eczema and psoriasis, whilst fine lines and wrinkles become more prominent. Also, when the skin feels dry, it produces more oil to compensate, leading to extra oiliness.
By replenishing the skin with lipids, antioxidants, vitamins, minerals and polyphenols that are abundant in oils, not only will the skin feel moisturized, the skin will also be able to fortify itself, retain optimal moisture, fight free radicals, stimulate collagen production, and maintain a healthier, stronger barrier to effectively improve skin issues such as dryness, eczema, irritations, oiliness and wrinkles, thereby slowing the aging process. Not to mention, oils do give the skin extra glow!
Product Recommendation
OUMERE
Serum Bioluminelle™ <- Click to shop
Product Recommendation
MARIE REYNOLDS LONDON
Elixir™ <- Click to shop
Guess what, when you take a collagen supplement, not only does it improve the quality of the skin on your face, it also improves the skin of the whole body in terms of hydration, elasticity, roughness, and density!
Studies have shown that ingesting high quality collagen supplement, which are metabolized to bioactive di- and tri-peptides in the gastrointestinal tract, and then released into the blood stream and accumulated in the skin to form new collagen, increase hyaluronic acid synthesis, and promote the production of other proteins that help structure the skin, including elastin and fibrillin, thereby plumping skin, preventing wrinkles, sagging, dryness, and increasing elasticity.
In one randomized, placebo-controlled 12-week clinical trial, it has been confirmed that objective dermatological measurements, such as cutometry and corneometry, have proven that oral collagen peptides, can reach deeper layers of the skin and sustainably improve skin physiology and appearance, including skin hydration, elasticity, roughness, and density after three months of intake. The study participants, in their subjective assessments, also concluded that their skin appearance had significantly improved without any side effects.
Another clinical research, which positively demonstrated collagen supplements’ impact on the skin cell’s ability to produce collagen fibers and hyaluronic acid, showed that the fragmentation of collagen in the deep layer of the dermis by significantly decreased by 18% after 4 weeks and as much as 31% after 12 weeks of intake. They also significantly increased the density of collagen in the dermis by +9% after 4 weeks of intake, and skin hydration increased by an astonishing 28%, resulting in a significant increase in skin elasticity and hydration, and reduction in wrinkle depth.
A double-blind, placebo-controlled study with 64 participants that lasted 12 weeks, also showed that skin-hydration values of the group that ingested collagen supplement once daily were significantly higher compared with the placebo group. Visual assessment score, three parameters of skin wrinkling, as well as skin elasticity were also significantly improved.
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AGENT NATEUR
holi(mane) Hair, Skin & Nails Daily Supplement <- Click to shop
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