Micellar Water vs Cleansing Oil vs Cleansing Balm: How to Choose by Skin Type & Occasion

Cleansing may seem like a simple step, but many people go wrong right from the first step of makeup removal and sunscreen removal. Over time, this leads to increasingly enlarged pores and dull skin tone, and can even become the root cause of blackheads, closed comedones, and acne breakouts.

Why do so many people get this step wrong? This is because makeup and sunscreen removal may seem "simple", but it actually involves core principles of dermatological science: Sunscreen, tinted moisturizers, BB creams, make up bases, foundations, makeup, and even daily sebum and environmental pollutants are all oil-soluble or stubborn residues that easily linger. This means that using a regular water-based cleanser alone often only removes the surface layer, while leaving behind a thin "invisible film". Over time, not only do pores become easily clogged, which leads to acne and blemishes, but subsequent skincare products also penetrate less effectively, meaning even the best skincare won’t be able to deliver ideal results.

In short, to improve your skin quality, the first priority is choosing the right makeup and sunscreen remover.

Today, let’s dive deep into the characteristics of different makeup/sunscreen removal products and how to choose them based on different skin types and situations!

I only apply sunscreen or light tinted moisturizers or toning products, why should I still need to double cleanse at night?

Many people have a misconception: If you only apply sunscreen or light tinted base in the morning, a regular cleanser at night is suffice. Well, if you want refined pores, no blackheads or blemishes, no inflammation or acne, and smooth, radiant skin texture, we must tell you that this is absolutely not enough.

｜Sunscreen Residue is an Invisible Killer

Many modern sunscreens are designed to adhere to the skin surface and form a film. To provide long-lasting, water-resistant protection, formulas include ingredients that cannot be completely removed with water-based cleansers. Research shows that for long-lasting, water-resistant sunscreen formulas, residue after removal with plain water is 59.3%, while a general cleanser still leaves 36.8% residue. In contrast, oil-based products (such as cleansing oil or cleansing balm) leave only 5.8% residue, with no significant difference from the negative control group at 3.2%, meaning only oil-based methods can truly remove sunscreen completely.

Chen W, He M, Xie L, Li L. The optimal cleansing method for the removal of sunscreen: Water, cleanser or cleansing oil? J Cosmet Dermatol. 2020; 19: 180–184. https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.12995

｜What Problems Does Residue Cause?

Unremoved sunscreen, tinted base, oxidized sebum, air pollution particles, mixed with sweat, dirt, and sebum, will clog pores, leading to acne, blackheads, and comedones. It can even irritate the skin, causing redness, sensitivity, and inflammation. Moreover, it may disrupt the skin’s natural renewal process, resulting in dull complexion, damaged skin barrier, and accelerated signs of aging. In fact, many dermatologists have noted that unexplained blackheads, acne, or rough skin texture often come from patients who "apply sunscreen or light makeup but don’t cleanse thoroughly".

｜Benefits of Double Cleansing

Double cleansing means using an oil-based product first, such as micellar water, cleansing oil, or cleansing balm, to dissolve oil-soluble residues like sunscreen, tinted creams, BB creams, makeup bases, foundations, and colored makeup, then emulsifying to completely rinse them away from the skin.

Then, as the second step, use a water-based cleanser to remove water-soluble dirt, sweat, etc.

This not only thoroughly cleanses the skin, prevents pore clogging, and improves absorption of subsequent skincare products, but also avoids over-stripping the skin’s natural oils, keeping the barrier healthier and maintaining the ideal "clean but not tight" state.

In other words, double cleansing is not just "unnecessary" or a drying/irritating step——it’s an essential investment in long-term skin health. By fully removing both oil-soluble and water-soluble residues everyday, you can truly "reset" the skin to welcome the next skincare steps.

The Core Mechanisms & Differences of the Three Main Makeup/Sunscreen Removal Products

｜Micellar Water Cleansing Water

The main ingredient in Micellar Water is naturally suspended active particles (micelles). These particles’ lipophilic properties act like magnets to adsorb oil-soluble waste on the skin, such as makeup, sunscreen, sebum, urban pollutants, cooking fumes, and skincare residues, and then quickly and precisely penetrating deep into pores to dissolve unnecessary dirt and oil. Use by soaking a cotton pad and gently wiping, then simply rinse (avoid vigorous rubbing to reduce friction).

Pros: Extremely gentle, fast, suitable for spot removal, high removal rate for general sunscreen and tinted base.

Cons: Not sufficient for heavy waterproof makeup or sunscreen.

Product Recommendation
SHEGAIA
ARCTIC™ Micellar Deep Cleansing Water <- Click to Shop

｜Cleansing Oil

Based on the "like dissolves like" principle, cleansing oil efficiently dissolves waterproof sunscreen, foundation, and makeup. Use by massaging on dry hands and face, then add water to emulsify and rinse.

Pros: Effectively and thoroughly removes stubborn sunscreen or base/makeup products, no tightness after rinsing.

Cons: Poor formulations, those that are unsuitable for your skin type, or insufficient emulsification or rinsing may clog pores.

Product Recommendation
AGENT NATEUR
holi(cleanse) Cleansing Face Oil <- Click to Shop

｜Cleansing Balm

Like cleansing oil, cleansing balm is based on the "like dissolves like" principle and efficiently dissolves waterproof sunscreen, foundation, and makeup. However, its buttery, silky balm texture makes it easier to "envelop" and thoroughly remove stubborn makeup and sunscreen during massage. It then melts into oil from body heat, deeply dissolving heavy makeup, and finally emulsifies with water for rinsing.

Formulas often include rich nourishing and repairing ingredients like ceramides or plant extracts to not only nourish the skin but also strengthen the skin barrier, thereby reducing post-cleanse tightness or redness, and leaving skin softer, smoother, and more refined after rinsing. This "cleanse while nourishing" effect makes cleansing balm especially suitable for those wanting extra repair, nourishment and soothing effects, during the cleansing step.

Pros: Easier to control than cleansing oil, especially suitable for dry, sensitive, inflamed, or barrier-weakened skin. Their low-water formulas also greatly reduce the need for preservatives or antibacterial agents, making them extra gentle and less irritating.

Cons: Less convenient to use than cleansing oil.

Product Recommendation
SHEGAIA
Milksome Cica Cleansing Milk Balm <- Click to Shop

Product Recommendation
MARIE REYNOLDS LONDON
Moringa Melt Cleansing Balm <- Click to Shop

Product Recommendation
TWELVE BEAUTY
Charcoal Peace Calming Cleanser <- Click to Shop

Many cleansing milks on the market claim to remove makeup and cleanse in one step——are they really enough?

The answer is both yes and no.

Cleansing milk is a water-based, milky or lotion-like emulsified cleanser. It typically contains gentle surfactants, moisturizing/nourishing ingredients, and emulsifiers, using surfactants to "grab" oil-soluble dirt and rinse it away with water. The advantage is gentleness and no tightness, making it an excellent regular cleanser suitable for all skin types.

Product Recommendation
MARIE REYNOLDS LONDON
Goji Mallow Cleanse™ <- Click to Shop

Product Recommendation
TWELVE BEAUTY
Purifying Cleansing Beauty Cream <- Click to Shop

However, when it comes to makeup and sunscreen removal, it is not the most thorough method.

Although cleansing milk has emulsifying ability, its oil/lipid content is low, making removal weaker for "adherent" bases and sunscreens, especially physical/mineral sunscreens. It often requires more forceful massage or multiple washes to get close to thorough. Generally, using cleansing milk alone removes about 70-80% of base/sunscreen, leaving 20-30% residue that accumulates over time. Thus many people who rely solely on single-step cleansing milk long-term end up with blackheads, acne, dullness, rough texture, or enlarged pores, which all point to residue issues.

In short, during travel or when short on time at night, occasionally using cleansing milk alone for "light makeup/sunscreen removal + cleansing" is okay. However, for oily, acne-prone, easily clogged pores, blackhead-prone, or inflamed skin, as long as you apply sunscreen or any tinted/base product daily, you must first use micellar water, cleansing oil, or cleansing balm at night to remove them, followed by a regular cleanser as the second step.

How to Choose Makeup/Sunscreen Removal Products in Different Situations?

｜Only applying one layer of sunscreen, or light tinted moisturizers, tone up creams, or concealer in the morning

First choice: Micellar-type cleansing water, as it is the most time-saving and simple option. Second choice: Cleansing oil or balm, especially for water-resistant sunscreen to ensure zero residue.

｜Using foundation or other colored makeup

First choice: Cleansing oil or balm to effectively and thoroughly remove oil-soluble impurities. After rinsing, if some areas (like around the eye area, sides of nose, hairline) still feel unclean, wipe with micellar water.

｜Needing to touch up or change makeup during the day

Can use micellar water to gently wipe way the makeup at the targeted areas, then reapply some cream/eye cream before reapplying sunscreeen/makeup.

Selection by Skin Type

｜Oily / Oil-Prone Skin

• Only sunscreen, tinted moisturizers, tone up creams, or concealer → Micellar water
• Using foundation or other colored makeup → Cleansing oil or balm that is light is texture, and can fully emulsify

｜Normal Skin

• Only sunscreen, tinted moiturizers, makeup bases, or concealer → Micellar water
• Using foundation or other colored makeup → Cleansing oil or balm

｜Dry / Sensitive Skin / Eczema / Rosacea / Inflamed Skin

• Regardless of situation, first choice is cleansing balm or cleansing oil. For quick or spot removal, choose a hydrating + repairing micellar water.

｜Acne-Prone Skin / Easily Clogged Pores

• Only sunscreen, tinted moiturizers, makeup bases, or concealer → Micellar water
• Using foundation or other colored makeup → Anti-inflammatory cleansing balm or cleansing oil with repairing effects

And regardless of skin type, do not forget to go in with a second cleanser so that the skin can be truly "reset" and welcome the next skincare steps!!

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