October 04, 2022
We have talked about oiliness and oily skin (here), dehydrated and dry skin (here), sensitive and sensitized skin (here), as well as combination skin (here) in depth in our previous posts, today, let's talk about normal skin, which is the easiest skin type to care for in theory, but can easily change due to various influences.
Normal skin type is probably the most ideal skin type, characterized by having a moderate, balanced amount of sebum and hydration, with smooth skin texture, inconspicuous pores, rare acne and irritation occurrences, and a strong skin barrier. Unfortunately for the most of us, it is something that is usually born with, as genetics play a huge part in it.
Now, thanks to the strong barrier function, normal skin type is usually less stimulated by outside influences. That is, however, only if the status quo remains undisrupted. This is because stress, incorrect skincare practices, sleep quality, diet, aging, health, hormonal fluctuations, seasonal change, environment, etc. can all disrupt such balance, causing even normal skin to get dehydrated, oily, or sensitive.
And here's the catch. Since people with normal skin type do not usually experience many skin issues, they often tend to think of skincare in the simplest terms, or outright neglect it. This may be fine when they're young, because their skin cell function is at its optimal level. However, when they start getting older, their skin cells do not renew or repair as quickly while damages keep on accumulating. This can lead to a sudden change in skin condition, wrinkles and pigmentation may start appearing in bulk, and the skin may start to sag and lose elasticity suddenly out of nowhere.
Worse yet, because they have not experienced such issues before, they are likely to be clueless about what to do, then get overly obsessed with the slightest skin reaction, and finally, use the wrong products and take care of the skin the wrong way, subsequently exacerbating the issues.
Just because you have normal skin now does not mean it will stay the same forever. Remember, if you take care of your skin negligently now, all hell can break loose when you age. Prevention is thus the best skin care strategy for normal skin.
As mentioned above, a strong skin barrier is one of the key factors in determining whether your skin stays normal, so protect it at all costs!
First of all, use a gentle non-foaming cleanser, and no harsh foaming cleansers, scrubs, cleansing brushes, and soap. Also, do not pick, scratch or rub the skin. This is because the constant friction and alkalinity can break down the skin’s lipid barrier, and with a damaged lipid barrier, the skin won’t be able to retain moisture or block out bacteria and irritants, which will lead to dryness, dehydration, inflammation, irritation, and even acne, premature aging and hyperpigmentation.
Secondly, use water around 38℃ - 40℃ to wash the face——water too cold won’t get rid of dirt and daily grimes efficiently, and water too hot will damage the barrier.
Thirdly, wear sunscreen, and preferably make up as well. The former will protect the skin from UV rays, and the latter will form a physical barrier between the skin and environmental aggressors, both of which can damage the skin barrier.
And finally, avoid harsh alcohol in skincare products. It is often used to help with evaporation for a lighter, fresher and dry-to-touch sensation, but it is also this particular property that may irritate the skin. These drying alcohol usually appear as Alcohol, Alcohol Denat., Isopropyl Alcohol, Methanol and SD Alcohol in a product’s ingredient list. When used in high concentrations, they deteriorate the skin’s protective barrier, rendering it ineffective at keeping moisture in and bacteria out, while stimulating oil production. These all may lead to dryness, irritations, and breakouts.
Product Recommendation
KLUR
Gentle Matter Daily Moisture Cleanser <- Click to shop
Product Recommendation
EATH LIBRARY
Smooth Operator Purifying Cleansing Gel <- Click to shop
Product Recommendation
MARIE REYNOLDS LONDON
Goji Mallow Cleanse™ <- Click to shop
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As the skin renewal process slows down with age, normal skin may start to feel dehydrated and rough in texture with clogged pores, whilst acne, blemishes, and even inflammation may start appearing. This is why exfoliation is important, as the thick layer of dead skin cells can trap dirt, oil and bacteria inside the skin.
Scrubs, however, is not recommendable.
Scrubs is the one thing that can severely damage the barrier. In fact, it can also remove healthy skin cells and create micro-tears invisible to the eyes, thereby creating an opening for bacteria.
The gentler way to exfoliate, contrary to popular belief, is actually using a low dose of acids consistently.
Use an acid product that contains AHA, BHA and PHA will help dissolve the bond between dead skin cells to speed up and ease the naturally turnover process, as well as unclog pores, preventing acne and blackheads. This way, products will be able to penetrate better, pigmentation will fade faster, and the skin will become smoother and more radiant. Over time, it will also increase collagen and hyaluronic acid deposition and synthesis over time.
Product Recommendation
Agent Nateur
holi(bright) Resurface Glass Face Mask <- Click to shop
Product Recommendation
OUMERE
No. 9 Exfoliant <- Click to shop
Product Recommendation
AGENT NATEUR
acid(wash) Lactic Acid Brightening Cleanser <- Click to shop
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As we age, our skin's water retention function can be disrupted by outside influences much easier. It is therefore vital to give the skin ample amount of water by using a variety of hydrating ingredients, since an optimal balance of hydration and moisture is the key to maintaining normal skin. Besides, hydrated skin can promote better absorption of follow-up skincare products.
A variety is key here, because while hydrosols like rose water and lavender water can provide multiple benefits for the skin, they only give hydration at the time of contact, and cannot continuously pull in hydration. Thus besides hydrosols and water, also look for humectants such as glycerin, aloe vera, honey, panthenol, allantoin, beta-glucan, lactic acid, oat, and cucumber, which help pull in water for the skin like a magnet.
But why does water help with product penetration?
When dish-washing liquid is squeezed on a dry sponge, it won’t get distributed evenly on the sponge to effectively clean the dishes. The skin after cleansing is just like that. Without that extra water, all those serums, oils or moisturizer won’t get absorbed and distributed properly in the skin; whereas when they are put on damp skin, penetration will be much better.
Product Recommendation
TWELVE BEAUTY
Ultra Revitalising Elixir <- Click to shop
Product Recommendation
AGENT NATEUR
holi(water) Hyaluronic Pearl & Rose Essence <- Click to shop
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As said above, since people with normal skin do not have many skin issues just yet, many of them tend to do a minimal routine and forget about the fact that damages are accumulating where our eyes cannot see.
Remember, just because you don't have wrinkles, pigmentation, sagging, loss of elasticity, etc. now, doesn't mean your skin cells are not getting damaged day by day. Once the damages accumulate enough, issues will start popping up here and there. Prevention is therefore always the key.
Since normal skin tends to have an optimal amount of hydration, focus on choosing one or two serums that can provide antioxidant, anti-glycation, anti-photoaging, brightening, collagen-stimulating properties. There are many amazing ingredients out there, but the top 5 that can provide all-round anti-aging benefits include retinol, niacinamide, vitamin C, and peptides.
For individual aging topics, check out the rest of the blog, as we have already talked about so many of them in depth.
Product Recommendation
KLUR
Stellar Restoration Corrective Complex <- Click to shop
Product Recommendation
EATH LIBRARY
The Pure Wonder Active Serum <- Click to shop
Product Recommendation
KLUR
Brilliant Light Multi-Correction Repair Serum <- Click to shop
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Water and oil balance is the determining factor for normal skin. While you provide the skin with water, don't forget the fact that the levels of lipids produced by our skin decline with age. Thus in order to maintain that balance, it is vital to replenish the skin with oils.
By replenishing the skin with lipids, antioxidants, vitamins, minerals and polyphenols that are abundant in oils, not only will the skin feel moisturized, the skin will also be able to fortify itself, retain optimal moisture, fight free radicals, stimulate collagen production, and maintain a healthier, stronger barrier to effectively improve skin issues such as dryness, eczema, irritations, oiliness and wrinkles, thereby slowing the aging process.
By building stronger barrier functions via oils, the skin will be able to lock in moisture naturally, and you may not even need a moisturiser. In fact, for those that are prone to clogged pores, an oil, which has a smaller molecular size than a moisturizer, may be even better than using a moisturiser.
Don’t worry, well-formulated oil serums are not greasy these days, plus all you need is 3-5 drops at a time. During summer, focus on using it in the evenings, but if you're extra dry, you may also want to use two drops in the mornings.
Oh, and remember to use it on damp skin!
AGENT NATEUR
holi(oil) Ageless Face Serum <- Click to shop
Product Recommendation
KLUR
Unseasonal Kind Lipid Replenishment Oil <- Click to shop
Product Recommendation
OUMERE
Serum Bioluminelle™ <- Click to shop
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Contrary to popular belief, oils are emollients, not occlusive ingredients, which is why they should be used before a moisturizer. For some people, using an oil serum is already enough without the need of a moisturizer, as the oils’ unique essential fatty acid content do help prevent water loss and maintain water content in the skin.
For others who do enjoy moisturizers, here’s the thing, it is always better to use a light moisturizer instead of a heavy one that contains a lot of occlusive ingredients such as petrolatum, lanolin, mineral oil, beeswax, and shea butter.
There are two main reasons.
Heavy moisturizers impede the natural cycle of skin turnover by keeping the unwanted, dead cells stuck to the skin surface, instead of letting them shed naturally. Not only will this make the skin look dull and textured, it will also prevent skincare ingredients from being absorbed. In other words, no matter how much water and oil you give the skin, your skin will still feel dehydrated and dry, as nothing is getting past this thick layer of dead skin cells! Worse yet, lines that aren’t even actually there will start appearing because of the uneven texture!
The skin has a naturally built-in function of hydrating itself. When heavy moisturizers are continuously applied to the skin, the cells in the epidermis would send a signal to the cells in the dermis telling them there is enough hydration so there is no need for more, instead of asking them to move hydration up to the skin surface. Gradually, the cells in the dermis would become lazy, go dormant, and ultimately stop regulating its own hydration level, resulting in drier and less elastic skin.
A more effective way to care for the skin is thus use a light emulsion / hydrator after the oil step to nourish the cells, seal all the nutrients in, and prevent trans-epidermal water loss, yet without impeding the skin’s natural hydrating function. Or, you may want to use a lightweight regenerative sleeping mask in place of a moisturiser that aims to provide the skin with nutrients and support its renewal process at night.
Product Recommendation
EATH Library
All Day Radiance Light Concentration Cream <- Click to shop
Product Recommendation
KLUR
Sculpture + A Overnight Enrichment Cream <- Click to shop
Product Recommendation
MARIE REYNOLDS LONDON
Skin Quencher <- Click to shop
Stress can cause excessive sebum secretion, hormonal fluctuations, as well as dryness. While having a stressless life is practically impossible, it is important to find a way that can lower your daily stress level. Exercising is obviously a good choice, but listening to music, singing, and even playing video games will help. Just don’t go use stress as an excuse to drink though.
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Without a good night sleep, our hormones and autonomic nerves will be thrown out of balance, which then leads to increased sebum production. In fact, research shows that a chronic lack of sleep, or getting poor quality sleep, increases the risk of many disorders and health issues. So if you need some external sleeping aids to help stop the bad sleep cycle, go for it. However, do choose natural ones, and do not rely on sleeping pills, which can induce dependency.
Product Recommendation
Marie Reynolds London
Zedz Night Time Blend <- Click to shop
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We know many of you are vegetarians, vegans, or going on constant diets, but remember, the skin needs oil and many other nutrients to maintain the lipid barrier and skin health (and don't forget our sebum production declines with age, making things worse). In fact, studies have revealed a lack of nutrients such as omega-3 and Vitamin ACDE, can increase the risk of skin problems such as sensitivity.
As beauty comes from within, please make sure you are giving your body enough nutrients, otherwise all the best skincare products won’t help.
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Studies have shown that ingesting high quality collagen supplement, which are metabolized to bioactive di- and tri-peptides in the gastrointestinal tract, and then released into the blood stream and accumulated in the skin to form new collagen, increase hyaluronic acid synthesis, and promote the production of other proteins that help structure the skin, including elastin and fibrillin, thereby plumping skin, preventing wrinkles, sagging, dryness, and increasing elasticity.
In one randomized, placebo-controlled 12-week clinical trial, it has been confirmed that objective dermatological measurements, such as cutometry and corneometry, have proven that oral collagen peptides, can reach deeper layers of the skin and sustainably improve skin physiology and appearance, including skin hydration, elasticity, roughness, and density after three months of intake. The study participants, in their subjective assessments, also concluded that their skin appearance had significantly improved without any side effects.
Another clinical research, which positively demonstrated collagen supplements’ impact on the skin cell’s ability to produce collagen fibers and hyaluronic acid, showed that the fragmentation of collagen in the deep layer of the dermis by significantly decreased by 18% after 4 weeks and as much as 31% after 12 weeks of intake. They also significantly increased the density of collagen in the dermis by +9% after 4 weeks of intake, and skin hydration increased by an astonishing 28%, resulting in a significant increase in skin elasticity and hydration, and reduction in wrinkle depth.
A double-blind, placebo-controlled study with 64 participants that lasted 12 weeks, also showed that skin-hydration values of the group that ingested collagen supplement once daily were significantly higher compared with the placebo group. Visual assessment score, three parameters of skin wrinkling, as well as skin elasticity were also significantly improved.
Product Recommendation
AGENT NATEUR
holi(mane) Hair, Skin & Nails Daily Supplement <- Click to shop
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Free radicals from UV rays damage the skin by triggering chronic inflammations, as well as breaking down the collagen and elastin fibers in the skin. Although invisible to the eyes, this gradually slows down our skin’s natural rejuvenation process, and appears on the skin in the form of dryness, dullness, loss of elasticity, wrinkles, pigmentation, redness, itchiness, and even chronic conditions like eczema, rosacea, and psoriasis.
Therefore, besides protecting the skin from UV damage with sunscreen and anti-photoaging products everyday, it is also important to keep the skin cool. For instance, try and stay indoor or under shades when the sun is out, and turn on a fan when you cook.
Product Recommendation
OUMERE
UV-R™ <- Click to shop
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