June 28, 2021
While Glycerin is one of the most used ingredients in skincare, it is rarely talked about. Why? It just does not sound new, exotic nor exciting. That by no means, however, imply that it is not an excellent ingredient. In fact, according to a 2016 study, glycerin is found to be the most effective humectant in comparison with others, including hyaluronic acid and urea.
Let’s talk about what glycerin is, and what it does for the skin.
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Glycerin is a natural, odorless and colorless oil-free component of animal, plant, and human tissues, including the skin and blood, with most cosmetic-used glycerin these days derived from vegetable sources. Being a humectant, it pulls water from the air (when humidity is over 70%) into the stratum corneum to keep the skin hydrated, whilst, thanks to its low molecular weight, it can also penetrate deep into the skin and hydrate the deeper layers of the dermis.
The best part? Research has shown that glycerin mimics human skin’s natural moisturizing factor (NMF), which depletes as we age, thus is safe for all skin types of all ages, including babies, unlike hyaluronic acid, which can potentially cause inflammation, depending on its molecular weight and concentration (for detailed explanation, click Hyaluronic Acid May Make Your Skin Worse).
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Research has shown that glycerin, being a humectant with a low molecular weight, is a major determinant of our stratum corneum’s water retention function, as well as its mechanical and biosynthetic functions, by pulling water from the air and hydrating both the stratum corneum and dermis hydrated.
Working hand-in-hand with aquaporins, a protein naturally found in the skin that regulates the way water moves between the basal layers of the epidermis and the stratum corneum, they can improve overall hydration, and balance adequate hydration between different skin layers, thereby alleviating signs of dehydration and dryness. In fact, studies have shown that Glycerin can even compensate for the genetic deficiency of aquaporins.
Product Recommendation
KLUR
Immersion Serum Concentrate <- Click to shop
Product Recommendation
AGENT NATEUR
holi(water) Hyaluronic Pearl & Rose Essence <- Click to shop
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When the skin’s lipid barrier is damaged, our skin will not be able to keep moisture in and bacteria out. Glycerin helps the skin’s natural lipids (which make up the barrier) retain their structure, thus keeping the barrier healthy and intact even when exposed to damaging aggressors like environmental pollution. The best part is, studies have shown even it can stay in the skin and provide barrier improving benefits up to a week.
Product Recommendation
TWELVE BEAUTY
Ideal Moisture Level Serum <- Click to shop
Product Recommendation
KLUR
Symmetry Fluid <- Click to shop
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Besides softening and improving rough and dry skin by increasing the skin’s water content, Glycerin can actually increase the water volume between cells to temporarily plump up the skin and minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
In addition, studies have also shown that Glycerin can even bind with and stabilize collagen, the protein responsible for keeping our skin firm, elastic, and appear youthful.
Product Recommendation
OUMERE
Serum Bioluminelle™ <- Click to shop
Product Recommendation
EATH LIBRARY
Wise Awakening Advanced Brightening Toner <- Click to shop
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Clinical and experimental studies have found that Glycerin can modify the crystalline phase lipid structures of stratum corneum to a liquid crystalline state, which aids the skin’s moisture retention function, making it more supple and elastic.
A study published in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology also shows that Glycerin can help skin cells mature properly by guiding young skin cells from deep in the dermis to the surface to form the skin’s barrier, resulting in skin that is more elastic and resilient.
Product Recommendation
OUMERE
The Eye Serum <- Click to shop
Product Recommendation
MARIE REYNOLDS LONDON
Reson8™ <- Click to shop
Product Recommendation
TWELVE BEAUTY
Rapid Eye Treatment <- Click to shop
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Thanks to its structure, Glycerin can cleanse the skin by removing excess oil and dirt whilst maintaining moisture in the skin and preventing skin irritation or dryness during the cleansing process.
It is also non-comedogenic, and mildly antimicrobial, antibacterial and anti-viral, thus is great for skin with issues like acne, blemishes, and eczema.
Product Recommendation
EATH LIBRARY
Smooth Operator Purifying Cleansing Gel <- Click to shop
Product Recommendation
AGENT NATEUR
acid(wash) Lactic Acid Brightening Cleanser <- Click to shop
Product Recommendation
MARIE REYNOLDS LONDON
Goji Mallow Cleanse™ <- Click to shop
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