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Why All Skin Types Should Use a Face Oil

November 09, 2021

With winter's colder temperature and lower humidity upon us, a thicker moisturizer maybe your first instinct to deal with drier skin. That is not the right way though, as thick moisturizers can be problematic (for more information, read: Is Moisturizer A Must In A Skincare Routine?). So what's the most effective way? The answer is a good quality face oil.

While some people tend to stay away from face oil in fear of greasiness, clogged pores, and breakouts, some swear by its efficacy in soothing, nourishing, and healing skin. The truth is, all skin types can benefit from a face oil——you just have to choose the right one, and use it correctly. Here's why and how.

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Face Oils Absorp Much Better Than Water-Based Serums and Moisturizers

First, we have to understand how the skin absorbs skincare——there are three pathways by which skincare ingredients can enter into skin.

Intercellular Absorption

Ingredients can absorb through the intercellular lipid material, or “glue” between cells, of the stratum corneum, which are made up of oil-based ceramides, cholesterol, cholesterol esters, and fatty acids. This essentially means water-based ingredients will be repelled since oil and water do not mix well, whilst face oils can penetrate and be absorbed much better.

Intracellular Absorption

The second route of absorption is through the dense, functionally dead cells of the stratum corneum. This is the route water-based ingredients can penetrate the skin. However, this layer of skin is 15 to 20 layers thick, which means only very tiny molecules can actually reach the deep layers of the skin this way.

Skincare Absorption | Ambrosia | Hong Kong

Transappendageal Or Follicular Absorption

Pores and hair follicles are openings at the upper layers of the skin that reach down past into the dermis, which act like conduits between the lower and upper layers of the skin. However, as they make up only about 0.1% of total surface of skin, it is difficult for ingredients to enter the skin this way.

Face oils can go through the intercellular matrix or through the follicular route, unlike water-based ingredients that can only take the intracellular route. They also have a much smaller molecular size. This is exactly why face oils of any kind have a much higher chance of absorbing into skin versus water-based serums or moisturizers, and deliver a wide array of nutrients deep into the skin.

Product Recommendation
KLUR
Unseasonal Kind Lipid Replenishment Oil <- Click to shop

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Our Skin, No Matter Skin Type, Simply Needs Oil

The levels of lipids that make up the outermost layer of the skin decline with age. As a result, the skin become thinner, and is more prone to dryness, dullness and conditions such as eczema and psoriasis, whilst fine lines and wrinkles become more prominent. Also, when the skin feels dry, it produces more oil to compensate, leading to extra oiliness.

By replenishing the skin with lipids, antioxidants, vitamins, minerals and polyphenols that are abundant in oils, not only will the skin feel moisturized, the skin will also be able to fortify itself, retain optimal moisture, fight free radicals, stimulate collagen production, and maintain a healthier, stronger barrier to effectively improve skin issues such as dryness, eczema, irritations, oiliness and wrinkles, thereby slowing the aging process.

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OUMERE
Serum Bioluminelle™ <- Click to shop

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Can Acne-Prone, Oily Skin Use a Face Oil?

Face oils is a no-brainer for dry and sensitive skin, but the truth is, even oily, acne-prone skin can use face oils. The right combination of oils can actually help stabilize and regulate the skin's sebum production, as well as reset the skin’s water-oil balance, which in turn, will help curb excessive oiliness for oily skin and dehydrated skin. Some oils also have incredible soothing and anti-inflammation properties, making them great for acne-prone skin.

At the end of the day, it really comes down to choosing a high-quality, strategically formulated face oil that suits your skin concern, as well as applying the oil correctly.

Product Recommendation
AGENT NATEUR
holi(oil) Ageless Face Serum <- Click to shop

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Are All Face Oils The Same?

No. Face oils, just like any other skincare products, are not one size fits all. Not only is the formulation important (i.e. the combination of oils used, and their respective concentration in the formula), the quality of the oils, where they are from, how they were extracted and processed, are also extremely important in determining their nutrient profile and efficacy, which obviously, greatly impact their prices. Using culinary olive oil as an example, Lion & Globe’s pure olive oil only costs HK$69.90/1 liter, while the Italian Comincioli extra virgin olive oil costs as much as HK$840/1 liter!

In other words, a brand’s 100% rosehip oil from South Africa, and another brand’s face oil with 20% cold-pressed rosehip oil from Chile, would be vastly different.

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MARIE REYNOLDS LONDON
Elixir™ <- Click to shop

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How to Use Face Oils Correctly

Choose a quality face oil with targeted benefits

There are many face oils on the market, and depending on the oils used and botanical extracts infused, as well as their respective concentration, they provide vastly different benefits. Therefore choose one that is formulated specifically for the face that targets your skin concern. Don’t choose a body oil for facial use, as it will likely be too heavy, and obviously, never use an oil used for cooking on your face.

Also, as mentioned above, the number one determinant of the efficacy of a face oil is the type and quality of the oils used, and good quality, nutrient-dense ones do cost a lot. For instance, wholesale per pound cost of Sesame Oil is around HK$80, whilst Prickly Pear Seed Oil is around HK$1,760, a whooping 22 times more! So yes, an excellent quality face oil with top-notch botanical extracts can be expensive, but the benefits they provide are well worth it!

Rather than a single-oil formula, opt for one with multiple oils and botanical extracts

Every single oil and botanical extract has a different nutrient profile, and when combined correctly, can work in synergy to provide multiplied benefits. In addition, a multi-oil formula in almost all cases feel way lighter on the skin than a single-oil formula. So instead of choosing a single-oil formula, choose one that is formulated with multiple oils and botanical extracts for maximum skincare benefits.

Less is more

Oils are not diluted, and are very nutrient dense, so you really don’t need much to reap their benefits. Under most circumstances, 4-5 drops are enough for the whole face. So one bottle even used day and night everyday will last a long time!

What is the best way to use a face oil?

There are actually many ways you can use a face oil in your routine, but here are the general rules:

Apply face oil after your serums and before moisturizer (or skip moisturizer completely).
For better penetration, as well as a lighter skin feel, always apply on damp skin.
You can spritz the skin with a mist or pat on some hydrating toner after your serum and before pressing on the face oil. You may also want to put on an extra layer of toner after the face oil, which can make it feel even lighter.
Do not put it on after moisturizer, as the occlusive ingredients in it will create a physical barrier on the skin and the face oil won’t be able to penetrate.

On top of using face oils in your skincare step, you can also mix a drop or two with your foundation, especially during winter. Not only will the face oil add an extra glow to the face, it will also prevent the foundation from drying out, so less cracks and dry lines will appear during the day!